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OBD-II Code P0370: Timing Reference High Resolution Signal 'A' Malfunction

The Ultimate Guide to P0370: Causes, Pro-Level Diagnosis, and Fixes

22 minutes to read
Most Likely Cause
Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Key Takeaways
  • Code P0370 indicates a lost primary engine timing signal, immediately causing a 0 RPM reading on your scanner and a dangerous no-start or stalling condition.
  • Replacing the crankshaft position sensor resolves this code in most cases, but always inspect the wiring harness for melted insulation before buying a $100 part.
  • Stop driving immediately; operating a vehicle with the severe misfires caused by P0370 destroys a $1,500 catalytic converter in under 50 miles.
  • Verify the sensor circuit has a steady 5V reference and less than 500mV of AC ripple from the alternator before authorizing a $1,000 PCM replacement.
P0370 means the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) lost the primary timing signal from the engine. This signal, generated by the crankshaft position sensor, is the engine's 'heartbeat' and dictates fuel injection and ignition spark timing. When this high-resolution signal drops, the engine runs poorly, stalls, or refuses to start.

What Does P0370 Mean?

P0370 means the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) lost the primary timing signal from the engine. This signal, generated by the crankshaft position sensor, is the engine's 'heartbeat' and dictates fuel injection and ignition spark timing. When this high-resolution signal drops, the engine runs poorly, stalls, or refuses to start.

Technical definition: The SAE/OBD-II definition is "Timing Reference High Resolution Signal 'A' Malfunction". 🎬 Watch: A quick overview of the P0370 code and its meaning. The PCM detects a corrupt, intermittent, or missing signal from the primary high-resolution timing reference circuit (usually the crankshaft position sensor). 'High Resolution' means the signal allows precise timing adjustments; 'Signal A' designates the primary input. On some diesels, it indicates a fault between the injection pump sensor and the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM).

🎬 Watch: Troubleshooting a crank-no-start condition on a Ford diesel engine.

Can I Drive With P0370?

No — Do Not Drive. Driving is a significant safety risk. The fault causes the engine to stall suddenly and without warning, potentially in traffic or at high speeds. Continuing to drive with the intermittent signal loss and misfires that accompany P0370 ruins the catalytic converter, costing $1,000 to $2,500 to replace.

Common Causes

  • Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) (Very Common) — The sensor reading the crankshaft's speed and position fails electronically or from thermal stress, sending a bad, intermittent, or nonexistent signal.
  • 🎬 See how to test and fix a faulty crankshaft position sensor.
  • Damaged Wiring or Connectors (Common) — The wiring harness melts from exhaust heat, frays from vibration, or corrodes at the connector, physically breaking the signal path to the PCM.
  • Damaged Reluctor Wheel/Tone Ring (Less Common) — The toothed wheel the sensor reads becomes damaged, covered in metallic debris, or comes loose from the crankshaft (a known issue on early Duramax engines).
  • Bad Ground Connection (Less Common) — A corroded engine ground strap creates electrical instability. The PCM interprets this voltage fluctuation as a sensor fault.
  • Failing Alternator Producing Electrical Noise (EMI) (Less Common) — A failing alternator with bad diodes produces excessive AC voltage (ripple). This electromagnetic interference scrambles the low-voltage CKP signal.
  • Incorrectly Gapped Sensor (Rare) — If the sensor was recently replaced without setting the correct air gap (distance to the reluctor ring), the signal is too weak for the PCM to read.
  • Faulty PCM or FICM (Rare) — The computer module receiving the signal fails internally. Consider this only after eliminating wiring, grounds, and the sensor itself.

Symptoms

  • Engine Cranks But Will Not Start — The engine cranks normally but refuses to fire because the PCM cannot time the fuel injectors or spark plugs without the crank signal.
  • Stalling, Rough Idle, and Severe Power Loss — The engine stalls unexpectedly at low speeds, idles erratically, and hesitates violently under acceleration due to fluctuating timing.
  • No Tachometer Reading During Crank — The dashboard tachometer reads exactly 0 RPM while the engine is cranking, confirming a total loss of the crankshaft position signal.
  • Check Engine Light is On or Flashing (also visible on scanner) — The MIL illuminates. A flashing light indicates a severe, catalyst-damaging misfire is actively occurring.

Diagnostic Flowchart

Tap your situation to follow the diagnostic path that matches what you're seeing on this code.

What is the primary situation or symptom you are experiencing?
How is the engine behaving when you try to drive?
→ Check for an RPM signal on a scan tool while cranking. A 0 RPM reading confirms a total failure in the crankshaft position sensor circuit.
→ Perform a 'wiggle test'. Manipulate the CKP sensor wiring harness while the engine runs. If the engine stumbles, you have an intermittent short in the harness.
Which other specific trouble code is present on your scanner?
→ The fault is definitively within the CKP sensor or its immediate circuit. Fixing P0370 automatically resolves P0335.
→ Diagnose the P0370 code first. A bad crank signal confuses the PCM into incorrectly flagging the cam sensor.
What type of work was recently performed on the vehicle?
→ Verify the sensor air gap is correct. Check if your vehicle requires a 'crankshaft position relearn' procedure via a bidirectional scan tool.
→ Perform an AC ripple test on the alternator. A reading over 500mV AC indicates electrical noise disrupting the CKP signal.
What were the results of your electrical circuit testing?
→ Do not replace the sensor. Check for a blown fuse or an open wire between the PCM and the sensor using a wiring diagram.
→ Clean the main engine ground strap. A poor ground causes erratic signals throughout the system, making good sensors appear faulty.
Which specific diesel vehicle are you currently trying to diagnose?
→ Use VCDS software to check the injection pump timing graph. The issue is likely the Needle Lift Sensor or requires mechanical pump adjustment.
→ Inspect the reluctor wheel on the crankshaft. These models have a known defect where the bolts back out, causing the wheel to loosen.

Common Fixes & Costs

  • Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor — Parts: $60-$150, Labor: $120-$200, ~1.5 hr book time (Intermediate)
    Chevy/GMC Silverado/Sierra 6.6L Duramax (2001-2010): OEM GM 97365037 (Alt: {"brand": "ACDelco", "part_number": "213-354"}, {"brand": "Bosch", "part_number": "0261210285"})
    Ford F-Series 6.0L/6.4L Powerstroke (Camshaft Sensor): OEM Motorcraft DU-88 (Alt: {"brand": "Standard Motor Products", "part_number": "PC620"})
  • Repair or Replace Wiring/Connector — Parts: $15-$45, Labor: $100-$250, ~1.5 hr book time (Intermediate)
    Universal: OEM N/A (Alt: {"brand": "Dorman", "part_number": "Varies by application"})
  • Clean or Replace Ground Connections — Parts: $5-$15, Labor: $50-$100, ~0.5 hr book time (DIY)
  • Replace Alternator — Parts: $200-$450, Labor: $100-$200, ~1.5 hr book time (Intermediate)
    Vehicle-Specific: OEM Requires VIN lookup
  • Replace Powertrain Control Module (PCM) — Parts: $500-$1000, Labor: $150-$250, ~1.5 hr book time (Professional)
    Vehicle-Specific: OEM Requires VIN lookup

DIY vs Professional

  • Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor — Beginner:
  • Repair or Replace Wiring/Connector — Beginner:
  • Clean or Replace Ground Connections — Beginner:
  • Replace Powertrain Control Module (PCM) — Beginner:

Used vs. New Parts: Buying Guide

When a used part is worth it: Buying a used crankshaft position sensor rarely makes sense. The risk of immediate failure and repeat labor costs outweighs the $20-$50 savings.

Donor-vehicle mileage cap: roughly under 20000 miles for the part to have meaningful remaining life.

Donor quality checklist:

  • Source only from low-mileage vehicles scrapped for non-engine reasons (e.g., rear-end collision).
  • Avoid sensors from regions with extreme heat, as thermal stress destroys internal electronics.
  • Verify exact part number matching.

Decision logic:

  • If A new OEM or premium aftermarket sensor costs under $150. → Buy new. The warranty and reliability are mandatory for this critical component.
  • If You are stranded and a used sensor is the only immediate option. → Install the used part to get home, but order a new OEM replacement immediately.

Warranty tradeoff: Used sensors offer a 30-day warranty that excludes labor. New OEM parts carry a 12-month/12,000-mile warranty.

Worst-case if a used part fails: $300-$500 (Repeat labor plus the cost of a new sensor after the used one fails).

What Happens If You Wait — Timeline

  1. 0-1 week: Check Engine Light illuminates. You experience occasional engine hesitation or a rough idle. The code is intermittent. (MPG impact: 0-5%% · Added cost: $0)
  2. 1 week - 1 month: Engine becomes hard to start. Stalling at low speeds becomes frequent, accompanied by a noticeable loss of power. (MPG impact: 5-15%% · Added cost: $50-$150 (Wasted fuel, potential towing fee))
  3. 1-3 months: Vehicle enters a complete no-start condition. The Check Engine Light flashes, indicating severe, catalyst-damaging misfires. (MPG impact: 15-25%% · Added cost: $250-$500 (Towing, diagnostic fees))
  4. 3+ months (if driven intermittently): Severe misfires overheat and destroy the catalytic converter. Unburnt fuel washes oil from cylinder walls, accelerating internal engine wear. (MPG impact: 20-30%+% · Added cost: $1500-$3000+ (Catalytic converter replacement, engine damage))

Cost of Not Fixing It

  • Immediate (1-30 days): Stranded vehicle due to no-start or stalling in traffic. 10-25% drop in fuel economy. Failed emissions test. (Added cost: $100-$300 (Towing, diagnostic fees, wasted fuel))
  • Short Term (1-6 months): Severe misfires from incorrect timing overheat and melt the catalytic converter internally. (Added cost: $1200-$2800 (Catalytic converter replacement))
  • Long Term (6+ months): Unburnt fuel washes oil from cylinder walls, causing piston ring and cylinder damage requiring an engine rebuild. (Added cost: $3000-$8000+ (Engine rebuild or replacement))

Diagnosis Steps

  1. Check Live Data for RPM Signal
    Connect a scan tool and view live data. Crank the engine and watch the 'Engine RPM' PID. If it reads 0 while the engine physically turns, you have confirmed a total loss of the crank signal.
    Tools: OBD-II Scanner with Live Data (Beginner)
  2. Perform a Thorough Visual Inspection
    Inspect the CKP sensor, connector, and wiring harness. Look for melted plastic, frayed wires, oil contamination, and corrosion on the pins. Verify main engine ground straps are tight.
    Tools: Flashlight (Beginner)
  3. Perform a Wiring Harness 'Wiggle Test'
    With the engine running (or while monitoring live RPM data during crank), aggressively wiggle the CKP sensor wiring harness. If the engine stumbles or the RPM reading drops out, you have located an intermittent break in the wiring.
    Tools: Hands, OBD-II Scanner (Intermediate)
  4. Test the Sensor Circuit at the Connector
    Disconnect the sensor. Turn the key ON (engine off). Use a multimeter to verify a 5V (or 12V) reference voltage, a solid ground (under 100mV), and continuity on the signal wire back to the PCM.
    Tools: Digital Multimeter, Wiring Diagram (Intermediate)
  5. Use an Oscilloscope for Definitive Testing
    Back-probe the sensor's signal wire with an oscilloscope while the engine runs. Look for a clean square wave (Hall-effect) or AC sine wave (Inductive). Missing pulses or heavy distortion confirm a bad sensor or damaged reluctor ring.
    Tools: Automotive Oscilloscope, Back-probe Pins (Advanced)
  6. Check for Alternator AC Ripple (EMI)
    Set the multimeter to AC Volts. With the engine running at 1500 RPM under heavy electrical load, measure across the battery terminals. A reading above 0.5V (500mV) AC indicates failing alternator diodes scrambling the sensor signal.
    Tools: Digital Multimeter (Advanced)
  7. Inspect the Reluctor Ring and Air Gap
    If the electrical circuit is perfect, physically inspect the reluctor wheel for broken teeth or looseness. Use a non-magnetic feeler gauge to verify the sensor air gap meets manufacturer specifications (typically 0.020" to 0.059").
    Tools: Wrenches, Feeler Gauges (Advanced)

When This Code Triggers (Freeze-Frame Conditions)

  • Engine Coolant Temp: 175-205°F (Engine was at full operating temperature when the fault logged.)
  • Engine RPM: 0 (during crank) or 1500-2500 RPM (Triggers during cranking if the signal is absent, or during steady-state cruise when an intermittent signal drops out.)
  • Engine Load: 20-50% (Occurs under light to moderate engine load.)
  • Vehicle Speed: 0 MPH or 30-60 MPH (Correlates with RPM, showing either a no-start condition or a fault during city/highway driving.)

Related Codes

  • P0371 — Indicates 'Too Many Pulses'. While P0370 means the signal is missing, P0371 means the PCM sees extra pulses, pointing directly to a damaged reluctor wheel or severe electrical interference.
  • P0335 — Generic code for 'Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction'. If present with P0370, the fault is definitively in the CKP sensor or its wiring. Fixing P0370 resolves P0335.
  • P0341 — Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit code. A bad crank signal (P0370) confuses the PCM into flagging the cam sensor. Always diagnose and fix the crankshaft code first.

Climate & Environmental Factors

  • Extreme Temperature Cycles: Repeated expansion and contraction from engine heat and winter cold turns wiring insulation brittle. This causes the CKP sensor harness to crack and short out against the engine block.
  • High Humidity & Road Salt: Moisture and salt accelerate corrosion on electrical connectors and ground points. Corroded pins create excessive resistance, blocking the sensitive 5V sensor signal.

How to Talk to a Mechanic About This Code

Say this: "I have a P0370 code with a no-start/stalling condition. I'd like to schedule a diagnostic, but please do not just replace the crankshaft sensor. I want the technician to test for power, ground, and signal at the sensor connector and inspect the wiring harness for damage before recommending a repair."

This signals that you understand P0370 is a circuit code. It forces a proper electrical diagnosis, preventing you from paying for a new sensor when the real problem is a broken wire.

Avoid saying:

  • 'Just fix whatever's wrong'
  • 'My check engine light is on, can you look at it?'
  • 'I think I need a new crank sensor'

Questions to ask before authorizing the repair:

  • Did you test for 5V reference and good ground at the sensor connector?
  • Did you perform a 'wiggle test' on the wiring harness?
  • Did you test the alternator for AC ripple to rule out electrical interference?
  • Will you provide a printout of the freeze-frame data?

Where to Take It: Dealer vs Independent vs Chain

  • Dealer: A good, but expensive, choice. Necessary for specific known issues on makes like VW or for PCM-related repairs.
    Best for: Vehicles under warranty, Complex manufacturer-specific quirks (e.g., VW TDI injection pump timing), Repairs requiring a PCM re-flash or replacement
    Downsides: Highest labor rates, typically $150-$250/hour., May recommend replacing an entire assembly when a smaller component failed. (Typical cost: +50% vs. baseline)
  • Independent Shop: Best overall fit. P0370 requires solid electrical diagnostic skills, which a reputable independent shop possesses.
    Best for: Out-of-warranty vehicles., Shops with ASE-certified technicians specializing in electrical diagnostics.
    Downsides: A shop without advanced tools (like an oscilloscope) will struggle to find the root cause. (Typical cost: +0% vs. baseline)
  • Chain Shop: AVOID for diagnosis. The risk of misdiagnosis is high. Acceptable for a simple sensor replacement only if you are 100% certain it is the problem.
    Best for: Simple part replacements only after a definitive diagnosis is already made.
    Downsides: Technician skill varies dramatically., Often lack advanced diagnostic tools and resort to guessing by replacing the sensor. (Typical cost: -10% vs. baseline)

When to Walk Away From the Repair

If the estimated repair cost exceeds 50% of the car's private-party value, seriously consider if the repair is worth it.

  • Car worth $4000, fix is $300: Fix it. This straightforward sensor replacement restores a critical function for a fraction of the car's value.
  • Car worth $3000, fix is $1800: Walk away. The repair requires replacing the PCM and a section of the main harness, exceeding 50% of the car's value.

What Scan Tool You Need for This Code

Minimum: A scanner that displays live data, specifically the Engine RPM (PID).

A basic $20 code reader cannot show the live Engine RPM signal. Seeing the RPM at 0 while cranking confirms the signal loss and is mandatory for diagnosis.

Budget: BlueDriver Pro or similar Bluetooth dongle (~$100) — Connects to your smartphone to display live data, including Engine RPM, confirming a total or intermittent loss of the crank signal.

Mid-range: Foxwell NT510 Elite or CGSULIT SC530 (~$180) — Offers bidirectional control necessary to perform a 'crankshaft position relearn' procedure required by many vehicles after sensor replacement.

Professional: Autel MaxiCOM MK808 or XTOOL D7W (~$450-700) — Provides full bidirectional controls and displays the sensor's output as a waveform (oscilloscope function) to definitively diagnose a failing sensor versus a wiring problem.

Rent vs buy: Parts store loaner tools are basic code readers that cannot view live data or perform a relearn. For P0370, you must buy a scanner with live data capability.

How to Clear the Code After You Fix It

  1. Use an OBD-II scan tool to clear P0370 and related codes from the PCM.
  2. Do not disconnect the battery to clear codes; this fails to reset readiness monitors on modern vehicles.
  3. Perform a full OBD-II drive cycle to verify the repair.

Drive cycle (~20 minutes): 1) Cold start and idle for 3 minutes. 2) Drive in stop-and-go traffic for 10 minutes with several accelerations. 3) Drive at a steady 55-60 MPH for 7 minutes. 4) Cool down completely and repeat.

Readiness monitors affected: Misfire Monitor, Fuel System Monitor, Catalyst Monitor, Oxygen Sensor Monitor

Before emissions retest: drive at least 50 miles to fully set monitors.

Watch out for:

  • The code returns immediately if the root cause (e.g., frayed wiring) is ignored.
  • Failing to complete the drive cycle leaves monitors incomplete, causing an automatic emissions failure.

Will This Fail Emissions / State Inspection?

Yes — this code typically fails an OBD-II emissions inspection.

  • California: An active P0370 code triggers an automatic smog check failure. All OBD readiness monitors must be 'Ready,' which is impossible with this fault.
  • New York: The NYS DMV inspection includes an OBD-II scan. P0370 causes an immediate emissions failure.
  • Texas: In the 17 counties requiring emissions testing, P0370 fails the OBD-II portion of the state inspection.

Most Commonly Affected Vehicles

  • Chevrolet/GMC Silverado & Sierra 2500HD/3500HD (6.6L Duramax) (2001-2016) — Extremely common. Early LB7 models (2001-2004) suffer from reluctor wheel bolts backing out. All years suffer from chafed wiring harnesses between the sensor and the FICM.
  • Ford F-Series Super Duty (6.0L & 7.3L Powerstroke) (1999-2007) — On these diesels, P0370 is frequently triggered by a failing Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) or its wiring, causing an immediate no-start condition.
  • Volkswagen Jetta, Golf, Passat (TDI) (1999-2010) — On ALH and later TDI engines, P0370 relates to the Needle Lift Sensor (Injector #3) or internal injection pump timing. Requires VCDS software to diagnose.
  • Hyundai/Kia Sonata, Optima, Santa Fe, Sorento (2005-2013) — Known weaknesses in the crankshaft position sensor wiring harnesses. The harness routes too close to exhaust components, becoming brittle and cracking.
  • Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep Ram, Grand Cherokee, 300, Town & Country (2004-2014) — Frequently affected by heat-damaged wiring pigtails connected to the crankshaft position sensor. Aftermarket heat shields are highly recommended.

Manufacturer-Specific Notes

  • General Motors (Duramax): On 6.6L Duramax engines, P0370 is frequently caused by a chafed wiring harness between the crank sensor and the FICM. Early LB7 models (2001-2004) have a known defect where the reluctor wheel comes loose on the crankshaft.
  • Ford (Powerstroke): On 7.3L and 6.0L Powerstroke engines, a no-start condition with P0370 points to a failure of the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP), not the crank sensor.
  • Volkswagen (TDI): For TDI diesels, P0370 links to injection pump timing. It requires specialized VCDS software to check the timing graph and make mechanical adjustments to the pump.

Real Owner Stories

2014 Chevy Silverado 6.6L Duramax with intermittent stalling

The truck stalled intermittently at low speeds with a P0370 code. Live data showed an erratic timing signal voltage.

What they tried:

  1. Initial thought was a bad crankshaft position sensor (CKP).

Outcome: Visual inspection revealed oil contamination on the CKP connector and a frayed wire. Cleaning the connector and repairing the wire restored the signal and fixed the stalling.

Lesson: Always perform a visual inspection of the wiring and connector before replacing the sensor. A simple wiring issue perfectly mimics a failed sensor.

Duramax owner with P0370 after major engine work

After pulling the engine and relocating the FICM, the engine cranked but wouldn't start, throwing P0370. The sensor had 12V power but no 5V reference.

What they tried:

  1. Suspected a bad FICM or a problem with the extended wiring harness.

Outcome: The issue was traced to a loose pin in the FICM connector for the Engine Speed Sensor wire. Securing the pin resolved the no-start condition.

Lesson: If the code appears after wiring modifications, meticulously re-check all connections and pins. A single loose pin causes a complete loss of signal.

DIY sensor replacement leads to continued problems

A vehicle continued to run rough and fail to start even after the owner replaced the crankshaft position sensor.

What they tried:

  1. Replaced the CKP sensor with a low-cost aftermarket part.

Outcome: The cheap aftermarket sensor was faulty out of the box, and the vehicle required a crankshaft position relearn procedure that was skipped. An OEM sensor and a proper relearn fixed it.

Lesson: Avoid low-quality aftermarket sensors for critical timing components. Always verify if your vehicle requires a scanner-initiated relearn procedure after replacement.

How to Prevent This Code From Triggering

  • Inspect and Clean Engine Ground Straps (Every 30,000 miles or 2 years) — Ground straps provide a stable electrical reference. Cleaning the connection points prevents voltage drops that cause erratic sensor signals.
  • Protect Wiring Harnesses from Heat (During any repair near the exhaust) — Adding heat-reflective tape or split-loom conduit ($10) to vulnerable sections prevents the insulation from turning brittle and shorting out.
  • Apply Dielectric Grease to Connectors (Whenever a sensor is disconnected) — Dielectric grease seals connectors from moisture, preventing the corrosion that causes intermittent signal loss in humid climates.
  • Fix Engine Oil Leaks Promptly (As soon as detected) — Engine oil degrades wiring insulation and contaminates sensor connectors. Fixing valve cover leaks protects critical sensors located lower on the block.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most common fix for P0370?

Replacing the crankshaft position sensor resolves the issue most of the time. The second most common fix is repairing a melted or frayed section of the sensor's wiring harness.

What does 'Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A' actually mean?

'Timing Reference' is the signal the PCM uses for engine timing. 'High Resolution' means the signal provides detailed position updates for precise control. 'Signal A' identifies the primary timing circuit, almost always the crankshaft position sensor.

Can I drive my car with a P0370 code?

No. The fault causes the engine to stall unpredictably, creating a major safety hazard. It also leaves you stranded with a car that refuses to restart.

Can a bad battery or alternator cause a P0370 code?

Yes. A failing alternator creates electrical 'noise' (AC ripple) that interferes with the sensitive crankshaft sensor signal. A weak battery causes low system voltage, leading to erratic sensor signals that trigger the code.

Can a bad ground cause a P0370 code?

Absolutely. A loose or corroded engine ground strap causes unstable voltage across the electrical system. Sensors rely on a stable ground reference; without it, the signal becomes erratic and triggers P0370.

How much does it cost to fix a P0370 code?

Replacing the crankshaft position sensor costs between $180 and $350 at a repair shop, including parts and labor. Costs run higher for trucks like the Ford Super Duty ($300-$500) due to difficult sensor access.

What is the most common misdiagnosis for P0370?

The most common mistake is replacing the crankshaft position sensor without testing the electrical circuit. Technicians often fail to check for 5V reference, ground, or alternator AC ripple. This guarantees the code returns if the real issue is a broken wire.

Key Takeaways

  • Code P0370 indicates a lost primary engine timing signal, immediately causing a 0 RPM reading on your scanner and a dangerous no-start or stalling condition.
  • Replacing the crankshaft position sensor resolves this code in most cases, but always inspect the wiring harness for melted insulation before buying a $100 part.
  • Stop driving immediately; operating a vehicle with the severe misfires caused by P0370 destroys a $1,500 catalytic converter in under 50 miles.
  • Verify the sensor circuit has a steady 5V reference and less than 500mV of AC ripple from the alternator before authorizing a $1,000 PCM replacement.
P0370 | P0370 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Malfunction | code p0370 | p0370 obd2
P0370 | P0370 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Malfunction | code p0370 | p0370 obd2
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Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
Go-Parts' AI research assistant. Every article is backed by live web research, verified OEM data, and real technician knowledge — so you get accurate, up-to-date information you can trust.
Meet Wrenchy → Updated Jul 21, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

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