OBD-II Code C1253: ABS Pump Motor Relay Failure

What Does C1253 Mean?

Code C1253 means the vehicle's Skid Control ECU detects a malfunction in the electrical circuit for the ABS pump motor relay. This relay acts as a switch to power the high-pressure pump essential for anti-lock brakes and stability control. When the circuit fails, the pump cannot activate, instantly disabling these safety systems and triggering dashboard warning lights.

Technical definition: The SAE/ISO definition is "Pump Motor Relay Malfunction". The skid control ECU detects an open circuit, a short circuit, or a relay stuck in the ON or OFF position. The ECU triggers the code when it reads voltage on the motor circuit while the relay is commanded off, or reads zero voltage when commanded on.

Can I Drive With C1253?

No — Do Not Drive. Do not drive. While conventional hydraulic brakes function, your Anti-lock Braking System (ABS), traction control, and stability control are disabled, significantly increasing stopping distances. On Toyota and Lexus hybrids, this code signals a critical electro-hydraulic braking failure that causes sudden, severe loss of braking power. Ignoring a constantly running pump motor burns it out, escalating a $50 relay issue into a $2,500 actuator replacement.

Common Causes

• Failed Brake Actuator Assembly (Internal Leak or Seized Motor) (Very Common) — This is the dominant root cause on Toyota and Lexus models. A small internal hydraulic leak prevents the system from holding pressure, forcing the pump to run excessively until the motor or relay burns out. Alternatively, the electric motor within the pump seizes. Both require replacing the entire actuator assembly.
• Blown ABS Fuses or Fusible Links (Common) — The ABS pump motor operates on a high-amperage circuit protected by 30A or 50A fuses. A voltage spike or an overworked pump motor blows these fuses, cutting power to the circuit and triggering C1253.
• Faulty ABS Pump Motor Relay (Common) — The electromagnetic relay powering the pump fails from age, gets stuck in the 'on' or 'off' position, or burns out from the high current draw of a failing motor.
• Poor EBCM Ground Connection (GM Vehicles) (Common) — A corroded ground connection for the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) is a notorious issue on GM trucks and SUVs. This creates high resistance, starving the pump circuit of voltage.
• Faulty Engine Room Junction Box (Lexus) (Less Common) — On many Lexus models, the ABS motor relay is integrated directly into the main engine bay fuse box and cannot be serviced separately. If this internal relay fails, the entire junction box requires replacement.
• Wiring, Connector, or Water Intrusion Issues (Less Common) — Frayed wires, loose pins, or water seeping into the main junction box causes corrosion on relay terminals, creating open or shorted circuits.
• Faulty Skid Control ECU (Rare) — The computer controlling the brake system fails internally, falsely reporting a relay malfunction when the issue lies within its own processing board.

Symptoms

• Dashboard Warning Lights (ABS, VSC, Red BRAKE) — The ABS, Vehicle Stability Control (VSC), and main red BRAKE warning lights illuminate simultaneously and remain on.
• ABS Pump Motor Continuously Running (Buzzing) — A distinct electric motor buzzing sound from the engine bay that does not shut off, even when the car is parked and turned off. This indicates a stuck relay.
• Compromised Braking Performance — During hard braking, wheels lock up and skid. On hybrids, the brake pedal becomes extremely firm and difficult to press, severely compromising stopping ability.
• Detailed INF Sub-codes Stored (scan-tool only — no driver-felt sign) — Advanced scanners reveal sub-codes (e.g., INF 138) pinpointing the exact electrical condition, such as monitor circuit voltage dropping below 3.5V.

Diagnostic Flowchart

Tap your situation to follow the diagnostic path that matches what you're seeing on this code.

Common Fixes & Costs

• Replace ABS Pump and Motor / Brake Actuator Assembly — Parts: $1,200-$2,500, Labor: $400-$800, ~4.5 hr book time (Professional)
• Replace Blown Fuses or Fusible Link Block — Parts: $5-$100, Labor: $20-$100, ~0.8 hr book time (DIY)
• Replace ABS Pump Motor Relay — Parts: $20-$70, Labor: $0-$50, ~0.2 hr book time (DIY)
• Replace Engine Room Junction Box — Parts: $400-$750, Labor: $150-$300, ~2 hr book time (Professional)
• Clean or Repair EBCM Ground Connection — Parts: $0-$5, Labor: $50-$100, ~0.8 hr book time (DIY)
• Perform Computerized Brake Bleed and Zero Point Calibration — Parts: $0, Labor: $150-$300, ~1.8 hr book time (Professional)

Used vs. New Parts: Buying Guide

When a used part is worth it: Buying used is extremely risky and generally not recommended. It only makes sense on a very old, low-value vehicle where the cost of a new part exceeds the car's worth.

Donor-vehicle mileage cap: roughly under 60000 miles for the part to have meaningful remaining life.

Donor quality checklist:

• Verify the donor vehicle was not scrapped due to brake system failure.
• Match the part number EXACTLY, especially on Prius models where multiple non-interchangeable versions exist.
• Source from a reputable salvage yard offering at least a 90-day warranty.
• Inspect the part for corrosion or damage to electrical connectors.

Decision logic:

• If Vehicle is a Toyota or Lexus known for this failure. → Buy a new OEM part with the latest revised part number. The savings from a used part are not worth the high risk of repeat failure.
• If Budget is the absolute primary concern and vehicle value is low. → A used part from a low-mileage, accident-damaged donor is a gamble, but may be considered. Be prepared for it to fail.
• If The failed part is the Engine Room Junction Box. → A used part is an acceptable risk compared to a used hydraulic actuator, provided it is from the exact same model and year.

Warranty tradeoff: Used parts typically have a 30-90 day warranty covering the part only. New OEM parts installed by a dealer carry a 12-month/12,000-mile warranty covering parts and labor.

Worst-case if a used part fails: $500-$1000 if a used part fails after installation, to cover repeat labor costs plus another part.

What Happens If You Wait — Timeline

1. 0-24 Hours (First Occurrence): Code C1253 is logged. ABS, VSC, and BRAKE warning lights illuminate. ABS and stability control are disabled, increasing skid risk. (MPG impact: 0%% · Added cost: $0)
2. 1 Day - 2 Weeks (If Relay is Stuck ON): The ABS pump motor runs continuously, overheats, and burns out completely. A parasitic draw drains the 12V battery. (MPG impact: 0%% · Added cost: $1,600 - $3,300 (A $50 relay failure becomes a full actuator replacement).)
3. 2 Weeks - 4 Months (If Driving Continues): On hybrids, the internal leak worsens. The driver experiences a hard pedal or sudden loss of brake assist, creating a severe safety hazard. (MPG impact: 0%% · Added cost: Cost of an accident.)
4. 4+ Months: Total failure of the electro-hydraulic brake system is imminent on affected hybrid models. The vehicle is unsafe to drive. (MPG impact: 0%% · Added cost: Total loss of vehicle and potential for serious injury.)

Cost of Not Fixing It

• Immediate: Loss of ABS and Vehicle Stability Control (VSC), leading to increased stopping distances and high risk of skidding. (Added cost: Potential for accident, injury, or total loss of vehicle.)
• Days to Weeks: If the relay is stuck on, the ABS pump motor runs continuously until it burns out, turning a cheap relay fix into an expensive actuator replacement. (Added cost: $2000-$3300)
• Ongoing: On hybrid vehicles, this fault causes a sudden and complete loss of power brake assist, requiring extreme pedal force to stop. (Added cost: Towing costs plus the cost of an accident.)
• Weeks to Months: A failing ABS module creates a parasitic draw, draining the vehicle's 12V battery when parked. (Added cost: $150-$300 for a new battery.)

Diagnosis Steps

1. Scan for Codes and INF Sub-codes
   Use an advanced OBD-II scanner to read manufacturer-specific Chassis (C) codes. Note all codes. For Toyota/Lexus, check for 'INF' sub-codes (like INF 138) to narrow down the specific voltage failure.
   Tools: Advanced OBD-II Scanner (e.g., Techstream, Autel) (Intermediate)
2. Check High-Amperage ABS Fuses
   Inspect all fuses labeled 'ABS', 'ABS MTR', or 'ECB' in the engine bay. Focus on the 30A to 50A fuses and fusible links. Test them with a multimeter for continuity.
   Tools: Fuse Puller, Multimeter (Beginner)
3. Inspect and Clean EBCM Ground (GM Vehicles)
   On GM trucks, locate the EBCM ground on the driver's side frame rail beneath the door. Remove the bolt, wire brush the contact surfaces to bare metal, apply dielectric grease, and reinstall.
   Tools: Socket Set, Wire Brush, Dielectric Grease (Beginner)
4. Perform Active Test of ABS Motor
   Use a bidirectional scanner to command the ABS pump motor ON. If it runs, the motor and high-current circuit are good. If it does not run, the fault lies in the motor, relay, or power supply. Stop DIY diagnosis here and take the vehicle to a shop if you lack a bidirectional scanner.
   Tools: Advanced Bidirectional OBD-II Scanner (Intermediate)
5. Check Live Data for Pressure Sensor Fluctuation
   Monitor the 'Accumulator Pressure Sensor' PID with a scan tool. With the vehicle on and brake pedal untouched, observe the voltage for 30 seconds. A drop of more than 0.55V confirms an internal hydraulic leak, condemning the actuator.
   Tools: Advanced OBD-II Scanner (Advanced)
6. Measure ABS Pump Motor Current Draw
   Clamp a DC ammeter around the main power wire to the ABS pump. Command the pump on. A healthy motor draws 15-25 amps. A draw over 40A indicates a seized motor blowing fuses.
   Tools: DC Inductive Amp Clamp, Bidirectional Scanner (Advanced)
7. Test Relay Control Circuit Voltage
   Remove the ABS relay. With the ignition ON, check for battery voltage (11-14V) at the relay socket's power supply terminals. A reading below 10V indicates a wiring or ECU power feed issue.
   Tools: Multimeter, Vehicle Wiring Diagram (Advanced)
8. Perform Zero Point Calibration
   After replacing any brake component, use a scan tool to perform a 'Zero Point Calibration'. This resets the yaw rate and deceleration sensors. Failing to do this leaves warning lights illuminated.
   Tools: Advanced OBD-II Scanner (Professional)

When This Code Triggers (Freeze-Frame Conditions)

• DTC Trigger: Self-test at Ignition ON (The ECU checks the motor relay circuit immediately after the vehicle is turned on. An open or short is detected for >1 sec.)
• Vehicle Speed: 0 mph (Fault is logged before the vehicle moves, during the initial power-on self-test.)
• Brake Pedal: Not Pressed (The code sets when the ECU detects the motor relay is stuck ON even when there is no command to build pressure.)
• System Voltage: 11-14V (The check is performed under normal battery voltage conditions; a separate code (C1241) sets for low system voltage.)

Related Codes

• C1256 — Low Pressure Accumulator. If the pump motor relay circuit fails (C1253), the pump cannot build pressure, triggering C1256. Seeing these together confirms a pump electrical or hydraulic fault.
• C1252 — Brake Booster Pump Motor on Time Abnormally Long. The pump runs excessively due to a stuck relay or hydraulic leak until the relay or motor burns out, logging C1253.
• C1391 — Abnormal Leak in Accumulator. The ECU detects a rapid pressure drop. This leak overworks the pump (C1252), eventually destroying the relay or motor circuit (C1253). This trio guarantees a failed actuator.
• C1241 — Low or High Power Supply Voltage. A failing alternator or bad battery disrupts the pump motor circuit, triggering C1253 as a secondary fault. Always fix C1241 first.

Climate & Environmental Factors

• Humidity and Road Salt (Rust Belt): Accelerates corrosion. On GM trucks, the exposed EBCM ground on the frame rail rusts heavily, creating high resistance. On Hyundai/Kia models, moisture intrudes into the ABS module, causing circuit board shorts.
• High Heat: Increases stress on an already overworked ABS pump motor, accelerating the breakdown of internal electrical windings and causing premature failure.
• Cold Weather: Thickens brake fluid, making it harder for a weak pump to build pressure. This causes pressure sensor readings to fluctuate, triggering codes more frequently on cold starts.

How to Talk to a Mechanic About This Code

Say this: "I have an ABS light on and my scanner shows code C1253. I understand this could be a simple fuse or relay, or a more complex actuator failure. Please start with the basic electrical checks before recommending an actuator replacement."

This signals you are an informed customer. It directs the shop to follow a logical diagnostic path and prevents them from immediately jumping to the most expensive conclusion.

Avoid saying:

• 'My ABS light is on, can you fix it?'
• 'I think I need a new ABS pump.'
• 'Just do whatever it takes to get the light off.'

Questions to ask before authorizing the repair:

• What specific diagnostic steps did you take to confirm the failure? Did you test the fuses and relays?
• If recommending an actuator replacement, what were the results of the accumulator pressure test or the active motor test?
• Is the recommended part a new OEM part with the latest revised part number?
• Does the estimate include the mandatory computerized brake bleed and zero-point calibration?
• What is the warranty on both the parts and the labor for this repair?

Where to Take It: Dealer vs Independent vs Chain

• Dealer: Recommended if the vehicle is a Toyota/Lexus with known issues, as they have the most experience and access to Techstream. Always check for warranty extensions first.
  Best for: Vehicles potentially covered by a warranty extension or Customer Support Program., Complex cases where a new actuator did not fix the problem., Owners who prioritize a guaranteed fix with an OEM part and a nationwide warranty.
  Downsides: Highest cost, often 1.5-2x the price of an independent shop., Unwilling to install customer-supplied or used parts. (Typical cost: +75% vs. baseline)
• Independent Shop: A good fit, but only if the shop is a trusted specialist in your vehicle's brand and has the proper bidirectional diagnostic tools.
  Best for: Out-of-warranty vehicles where the diagnosis is straightforward (e.g., bad ground on a GM truck)., Cost-conscious owners who have vetted the shop's reputation for complex electrical work.
  Downsides: Shop may lack the expensive, manufacturer-specific scan tools needed for proper bleeding and calibration., A shop inexperienced with this specific failure misdiagnoses it. (Typical cost: +0% vs. baseline)
• Chain Shop: AVOID. This repair is far beyond the scope of a typical chain brake shop. They lack the specialized tools for a safe repair.
  Best for: Checking and replacing fuses if you are unable to yourself.
  Downsides: Technician skill and equipment are generally not adequate for this complex diagnosis., High pressure to sell parts leads to misdiagnosis and unnecessary replacement. (Typical cost: -10% vs. baseline)

When to Walk Away From the Repair

If the estimated repair cost for the ABS actuator replacement exceeds 50-60% of your car's private-party market value, seriously consider selling the car as-is.

• Car worth $6000, fix is $3500: Walk away. The repair cost is a huge percentage of the car's value. It's not economically sensible.
• Car worth $15000, fix is $3500: Fix it. The repair cost is significant but well below the 50% threshold.
• Car worth $4000, fix is $800: Fix it. If the diagnosis points to a less expensive cause like a junction box or ground wire, the repair is easily justified.

What Scan Tool You Need for This Code

Minimum: A scanner that can read and clear ABS/Chassis (C) codes. A basic engine-only code reader is useless for C1253.

A $20 engine code reader cannot communicate with the ABS module. It will not see the C1253 code or any other brake-related faults.

Budget: BlueDriver Pro (~$100) — Reads and clears ABS codes, providing the essential first step of confirming C1253. It views live data to help in diagnosis.

Mid-range: Foxwell NT630 Plus / Autel MaxiCheck Pro (~$150) — Adds bidirectional control. This allows you to perform 'Active Tests' to command the ABS pump motor on/off and perform the mandatory 'ABS Bleed' function.

Professional: Autel MaxiCOM MK808 / Toyota Techstream (~$500-800) — Provides full dealership-level functionality. Reads manufacturer-specific INF sub-codes and performs the required Zero Point Calibration after actuator replacement.

Rent vs buy: For C1253, renting is not a viable option. Parts stores do not rent the bidirectional tools required for active tests and bleeding procedures. Buying a mid-range scanner is a worthwhile investment.

How to Clear the Code After You Fix It

1. Use an advanced OBD-II scan tool to clear Chassis codes.
2. Perform manufacturer-specific computerized brake bleeding procedure.
3. Perform Zero Point Calibration for yaw rate and deceleration sensors.
4. Perform a road test including several ABS stops to confirm function.

Drive cycle (~30 minutes): An emissions readiness drive cycle is needed after clearing codes. A typical cycle includes: Cold start -> 5-10 min idle -> 15-20 min of mixed city/highway driving between 40-70 mph -> cool down.

Readiness monitors affected: Catalyst Monitor, EVAP Monitor, O2 Sensor Monitor

Before emissions retest: drive at least 50 miles to fully set monitors.

Watch out for:

• Using a basic scanner that cannot clear Chassis (C) codes.
• Failing to perform the required computerized brake bleed and Zero Point Calibration, leaving warning lights on.
• The code returns instantly if the underlying hardware fault is not repaired.

Will This Fail Emissions / State Inspection?

Yes — this code typically fails an OBD-II emissions inspection.

• California: An illuminated ABS or Brake warning light causes a failure of the safety inspection. Clearing the code resets emissions readiness monitors.
• New York: An illuminated ABS light is grounds for safety inspection failure under current inspection standards.
• Texas: In counties requiring safety inspections, an illuminated ABS light results in a failure. Service brakes must be fully functional.

Most Commonly Affected Vehicles

• Lexus LS460 / LS600h (2007-2017) — Extremely common brake actuator failure due to internal leaks. Using the latest revised part number (e.g., 44050-50170) is critical for a lasting repair.
• Toyota Prius (Gen 2 & Gen 3) (2004-2015) — Classic symptom of brake actuator failure. For 2010-2015 models, the replacement actuator part number must match the original exactly, or the system will not calibrate.
• Lexus RX Hybrid (RX400h, RX450h) (2006-2015) — Known for brake booster pump/actuator failures. Repair costs frequently exceed $2,500.
• Toyota Highlander Hybrid (2006-2016) — Prone to brake actuator failure. Toyota issued Customer Support Programs extending warranty coverage for this specific issue.
• Toyota Prius C (2012-2017) — Suffers from brake booster/actuator failure. Customer Support Program 24TE01 covers certain 2015-2017 models.
• Chevrolet / GMC Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Suburban (2007-2014) — Frequently caused by a poor ground for the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) located on the outside of the driver-side frame rail.
• Ford F-150, Expedition, Explorer (2009-2014) — Points to an internal failure of the ABS module's Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) or a seized pump motor. Diagnosis requires checking for excessive amperage draw.
• Hyundai / Kia Sonata, Santa Fe, Optima, Sorento (2011-2015) — Associated with an internal fault in the Hydraulic Electronic Control Unit (HECU), subject to massive safety recalls for fire risk.

Manufacturer-Specific Notes

• Toyota/Lexus: C1253 is the classic calling card of a failed brake actuator assembly. A common secondary failure is a burned-out, non-serviceable relay inside the engine room junction block, requiring full fuse box replacement.
• General Motors (GM): On GMT900 platform trucks, the first diagnostic step is inspecting the EBCM ground on the outer frame rail under the driver's door. Cleaning this single point of failure often resolves the code.
• Ford: C1253 points directly to a mechanically seized pump motor. Using an amp clamp on the motor's power wire during activation is mandatory; a draw over 40A condemns the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU).
• Hyundai/Kia: Caused by an internal failure of the Hydraulic Electronic Control Unit (HECU). This unit is subject to major safety recalls because internal fluid leaks cause electrical shorts and fire risks. Check your VIN for open recalls.

Real Owner Stories

2008 Toyota Prius with multiple brake codes

After replacing a motor mount, the ABS, VSC, and BRAKE lights came on with a loud alarm. Codes C1253 and C1256 were present.

What they tried:

1. Replaced the ABS actuator with a used part from eBay for $265.
2. The alarm stopped but code C1253 and warning lights remained.
3. Discovered and replaced a blown 35A ABS fuse.
4. Swapped a known-good actuator, but the code still would not clear.

Outcome: The issue was traced back to a simple blown fuse, likely caused by the initial repair work. Replacing the expensive actuator didn't fix the root electrical problem.

Lesson: Never skip the basics. A $2,400 repair quote can sometimes be solved by checking fuses and relays first. Use a multimeter before replacing expensive components.

2007 Lexus LS460 with intermittent C1253

ABS/VSC lights came on intermittently on cold mornings, logging only code C1253. After warming up, lights stayed off on restart.

What they tried:

1. A shop replaced the ABS actuator and pump assembly.
2. The problem persisted, with the same codes returning.
3. A mechanic diagnosed a faulty internal relay in the Engine Room Junction Block.

Outcome: The entire Junction Block (part #82720-50081) was replaced for $600 parts and labor, permanently resolving the C1253 code.

Lesson: On Lexus models, a C1253 that isn't fixed by a new actuator is very likely a secondary failure of the non-serviceable relay inside the main fuse box.

2013 Toyota Prius with ~75k miles

Sudden alarm, soft brake pedal requiring multiple pumps to stop, and ABS/VSC/Brake lights on. Codes C1252, C1253, C1256 present.

What they tried:

1. Mechanic hit the brake motor with a hammer, which temporarily made the lights and symptoms disappear for a few miles.

Outcome: The hammer trick proved the pump motor's brushes were worn out and stuck. The final repair required replacing the ABS actuator and pump assembly for $1,800 at an independent shop.

Lesson: If tapping the ABS pump motor temporarily resolves the issue, the motor itself has failed due to worn internal components. The actuator assembly requires replacement.

How to Prevent This Code From Triggering

• Flush and replace brake fluid every 2-3 years or 30,000 miles. (Every 2-3 years) — Brake fluid absorbs moisture, leading to internal corrosion of the delicate valves inside the ABS actuator. Fresh fluid is the single most effective way to prolong actuator life.
• Use a scan tool to perform an ABS bleed procedure during fluid flush. (During brake fluid service) — A standard bleed does not cycle the internal valves, trapping contaminated fluid inside. An ABS bleed purges old fluid from the pump and valve body.
• Always open the bleeder screw when compressing caliper pistons. (During brake pad replacement) — Forcing the piston back without opening the bleeder pushes dirty fluid backward into the ABS module, introducing debris into sensitive valves.
• Maintain a healthy battery and clean terminal connections. (Annually) — The ABS module is sensitive to low voltage. A weak battery causes control module glitches and puts extra strain on the pump motor and relay.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it safe to drive with code C1253?

No. Your ABS and stability control are offline, increasing stopping distance and skid risk. On hybrids, this code precedes sudden power brake assist failure, requiring extreme pedal force to stop. Tow the vehicle.

Will C1253 cause my car to fail an inspection?

Yes. An illuminated ABS warning light is an automatic safety inspection failure in virtually all jurisdictions.

I replaced the actuator, but C1253 came back. What now?

You likely have a secondary electrical failure caused by the original bad actuator. Check the high-amperage ABS fuses first. On Lexus/Toyota models, a burned-out internal relay in the engine room junction block is the next most common culprit.

What is a common misdiagnosis for C1253?

Replacing the $2,000 ABS actuator without testing the electrical circuit first. Always test the ABS motor relays, high-amperage fuses, and frame ground connections before buying expensive hydraulic parts.

What are the 'INF' sub-codes with C1253 on my Toyota/Lexus?

Advanced scanners pull detailed 'INF' sub-codes to pinpoint the exact electrical fault. For example, INF 138 indicates the motor monitor voltage dropped below 3.5V. This tells the technician exactly which wire to test.

Can I clear the C1253 code myself?

You can clear it with a scanner, but it returns immediately. The ECU performs a self-check at startup and re-logs C1253 as soon as it detects the hard electrical fault. The light stays on until the hardware is fixed.

Why did C1253 appear right after I replaced my brake pads?

Forcing caliper pistons back without opening the bleeder screw sends a destructive pressure spike into the ABS actuator. This blows out sensitive internal valves. Always open the bleeder when compressing pistons.

Is a used or remanufactured ABS actuator a good idea?

No. Because Toyota/Lexus actuators have a near-100% failure rate over time, a salvage part will likely fail shortly after installation. Buy a new OEM part with the latest revised part number for a safe, lasting repair.

How much does it really cost to fix code C1253?

A simple relay or ground wire repair costs under $150. However, the most common fix—replacing a failed Toyota/Lexus brake actuator—costs between $1,600 and $3,300 at a shop.

Key Takeaways

• Code C1253 disables your ABS and stability control, increasing stopping distances and making the vehicle unsafe to drive.
• On Toyota and Lexus hybrids, this code almost always indicates a failed brake actuator assembly requiring a $1,600 to $3,300 repair.
• Always check the 30A or 50A ABS fuses and swap the ABS motor relay before condemning the expensive actuator pump.
• If you hear the ABS pump buzzing continuously while parked, immediately pull the ABS fuse to prevent the motor from burning out.
• Replacing the actuator requires a professional bidirectional scanner to perform a mandatory computerized brake bleed and Zero Point Calibration.