OBD-II Code C0117: ABS Pump Motor Circuit Malfunction

What Does C0117 Mean?

Code C0117 indicates the ABS control module detected an electrical fault in the ABS pump motor circuit. This pump maintains steering control during emergency stops by rapidly pulsing the brakes. When triggered, the vehicle disables ABS and traction control as a safety precaution.

Technical definition: Manufacturers define C0117 as 'Pump Motor Relay Circuit Range/Performance' or 'ABS System Relay Circuit Short to Battery.' The ABS control module detected abnormal voltage or resistance in the high-current circuit powering the ABS pump motor, indicating a performance issue rather than a simple open circuit.

Can I Drive With C0117?

Yes, But With Caution. Yes, but your Anti-lock Braking System (ABS), traction, and stability control are disabled. Standard hydraulic brakes still function, but you risk losing steering control during a panic stop. On wet surfaces, braking distance increases by over 10%, and wheels lock, causing an uncontrolled skid. Repair this immediately to restore critical safety features.

Common Causes

• Blown ABS fuse (Very Common) — The ABS pump motor draws significant current and relies on a large 30A to 60A fuse. If this fuse blows from a momentary surge or short circuit, the pump loses power instantly.
• Faulty ABS pump motor relay (Very Common) — This small, high-current electrical switch controls power to the ABS pump motor. Relays wear out from repeated use or fail internally, making them a frequent culprit.
• Poor ground connection (Common) — The ABS system requires a solid ground connection to the vehicle frame to handle high electrical loads. Rusty or loose connections create high resistance and voltage drops, a notorious issue on GM trucks.
• Failing ABS control module (EBCM) (Common) — The EBCM fails internally, often due to cracked solder joints on the circuit board controlling the pump motor relay. A faulty module sends incorrect signals or fails to power the pump.
• Corroded or damaged wiring/connectors (Less Common) — Exposed wiring and connectors degrade from moisture and road salt, causing short or open circuits between the module, relay, and pump.
• Faulty ABS pump motor (Less Common) — The electric motor inside the ABS pump assembly fails internally by seizing or developing shorted windings, causing an over-current condition.
• Low or unstable battery voltage (Rare) — A weak battery causes voltage fluctuations during engine cranking. The ABS controller interprets this voltage drop as a circuit fault, triggering C0117 even if the ABS components are healthy.

Symptoms

• ABS and Traction Control warning lights are on — These systems rely on the same pump circuit. Both lights illuminate immediately and stay on while the fault is active.
• Wheels lock up during hard braking — Without ABS, the wheels skid during a panic stop, especially on slippery surfaces, eliminating your ability to steer while braking.
• ABS pump motor runs constantly — A stuck relay forces the ABS pump motor to run continuously, even when the car is off. You will hear a loud buzzing or humming sound from under the hood.
• Audible clicking from ABS module — You hear a rapid clicking from the ABS module area when first applying the brakes as the module attempts to activate the failed pump circuit.
• Brake pedal feels harder than usual — The brake pedal requires more physical effort during initial application because the ABS hydraulic assist is inactive.

Diagnostic Flowchart

Tap your situation to follow the diagnostic path that matches what you're seeing on this code.

Common Fixes & Costs

• Replace blown ABS fuse — Parts: $5-$20, Labor: $0 (DIY), ~0.2 hr book time (DIY)
• Replace ABS pump motor relay — Parts: $15-$40, Labor: $0 (DIY), ~0.2 hr book time (DIY)
• Clean or repair ABS ground connection — Parts: $0-$10, Labor: $50-$150, ~0.8 hr book time (DIY)
• Replace or rebuild ABS control module (EBCM) — Parts: $200-$500 (rebuilt), $800-$1,500 (new), Labor: $150-$300, ~1.5 hr book time (Professional)
• Replace ABS pump and motor assembly — Parts: $800-$2,000, Labor: $250-$450, ~2.5 hr book time (Professional)
• Repair or replace damaged wiring — Parts: $10-$50, Labor: $150-$400, ~2.0 hr book time (Intermediate)

DIY vs Professional

• Replace blown ABS fuse / ABS pump motor relay — Beginner:
  Tools: Fuse puller or pliers, owner's manual.
• Clean or repair ABS ground connection — Beginner:
  Tools: Socket set, wire brush, dielectric grease.
• Replace or rebuild ABS control module (EBCM) — Beginner:
  Tools: Socket set, Torx sockets, scan tool for programming.
• Replace ABS pump and motor assembly — Beginner:
  Tools: Flare nut wrenches, brake bleeding equipment, bi-directional scan tool.
• Repair or replace damaged wiring — Beginner:
  Tools: Multimeter, wire strippers, crimpers, heat shrink tubing, soldering iron.

Used vs. New Parts: Buying Guide

When a used part is worth it: A used ABS module/pump assembly is cost-effective for older, high-mileage vehicles where a new part is prohibitively expensive. It makes sense if you source a guaranteed-good part from a reputable salvage yard.

Donor-vehicle mileage cap: roughly under 100000 miles for the part to have meaningful remaining life.

Donor quality checklist:

• Verify the part number on the used module exactly matches the original.
• Purchase from a seller offering a 30-90 day warranty.
• Ensure the donor vehicle was salvaged for accident damage, not electrical or flood damage.
• Factor in the cost of VIN programming by an independent shop.

Decision logic:

• If The fault is internal to the module and the original can be removed → Send the original module to a rebuild service to balance cost and reliability while avoiding VIN programming.
• If Vehicle is less than 10 years old and the part is available new → Buy new (OEM or quality aftermarket) for the best warranty, but prepare for programming costs.
• If Vehicle is over 10 years old and budget is the primary concern → Buy a used part from a warrantied source, factoring in the hassle of programming.

Warranty tradeoff: Used parts have a 30-90 day warranty. Rebuilt services offer 1-year to lifetime warranties. New aftermarket parts offer 1-3 year warranties, while new OEM parts carry a 1-year warranty.

Worst-case if a used part fails: $500-$1000 if a used part fails, covering repeat labor for installation, brake bleeding, and another replacement part.

What Happens If You Wait — Timeline

1. 0-1 month: Code sets, ABS and Traction Control lights turn on. ABS function is disabled. No physical damage occurs if the cause is a simple open circuit or bad ground. (MPG impact: 0%% · Added cost: $0)
2. Immediate to 2 weeks (Stuck Relay Scenario): A stuck relay causes the ABS pump to run continuously, draining the battery and causing the pump motor to overheat. (MPG impact: 0%% · Added cost: $150-$300 (Cost of a new battery or tow service).)
3. 2 weeks to 3 months (Stuck Relay Scenario): The continuously running ABS pump motor windings overheat and burn out. The buzzing noise stops because the motor is dead. (MPG impact: 0%% · Added cost: $1,000-$2,500 (A $30 relay failure destroys the entire ABS pump assembly).)
4. 6+ months (General Neglect): Corrosion spreads, damaging the wiring harness or ABS module pins beyond simple cleaning. The primary cost remains the severe safety risk of operating without ABS. (MPG impact: 0%% · Added cost: $1,500-$3,000 (Requires a new wiring harness pigtail or replacement module).)

Cost of Not Fixing It

• Immediate: Loss of ABS, traction control, and stability control. Increased risk of skidding and loss of control during panic braking or in slippery conditions. (Added cost: N/A (Safety Risk))
• 1-6 months: If a stuck relay causes the pump to run constantly, the ABS pump motor burns out, turning a cheap relay fix into an expensive pump replacement. (Added cost: $1000-$2500)
• 6+ months: Continued operation without ABS leads to uneven tire wear if braking habits change. The primary cost remains the severe safety risk. (Added cost: $200-$500 (Tires) + Component Damage)

Diagnosis Steps

1. Read and Record Trouble Codes
   Use an ABS-capable OBD-II scanner to confirm C0117 is active. Record any accompanying codes (like U0121 or C0265), as they pinpoint whether the issue is a network failure or a specific circuit short. Clear the codes to see if C0117 returns immediately.
   Tools: OBD-II Scanner (with ABS capability) (Beginner)
2. Inspect the High-Amperage ABS Fuse
   Locate the under-hood fuse box. Find the large, high-amperage fuse (30A to 60A) dedicated to the ABS pump motor. Visually inspect it for a blown filament or hairline cracks. Use a multimeter to confirm the fuse has continuity (reads 0 ohms).
   Tools: Owner's manual, flashlight, multimeter (Beginner)
3. Swap the ABS Pump Motor Relay
   Locate the ABS pump relay in the fuse box. Swap it with an identical relay from a non-essential system, such as the horn or rear defroster. If the ABS light turns off and the horn stops working, the relay is bad.
   Tools: Owner's manual, relay puller or pliers (Beginner)
4. Clean the Main ABS Ground Connection
   Locate the main ground wire bolted to the vehicle's frame near the ABS module (especially critical on GM trucks). Remove the bolt, scrub the frame and wire terminal to bare metal with a wire brush, apply dielectric grease, and re-secure tightly.
   Tools: Socket set, wire brush, dielectric grease (Intermediate)
5. Test the Relay Socket for Power
   Remove the ABS pump relay. Use a multimeter to check for battery voltage (12.0V-12.6V) at the fuse box terminal supplying power to the relay coil, and the terminal supplying power to the pump motor. A 0V reading indicates an open circuit between the battery and fuse box.
   Tools: Multimeter, vehicle wiring diagram (Intermediate)
6. Command the ABS Pump Motor with a Scan Tool
   Use a bi-directional scan tool to command the ABS pump motor ON. Listen for the motor running. If the scan tool shows it is sending power but the motor does not run, the fault is in the ABS control module, the wiring, or the motor itself.
   Tools: Bi-directional scan tool (Advanced)
7. Test the ABS Pump Motor Directly
   Disconnect the ABS pump motor harness. Use a power probe or fused jumper wires to apply 12V battery power directly to the motor's terminals. A healthy motor runs instantly. If it does not run, the motor is dead and requires replacement.
   Tools: Power probe or fused jumper wires (Advanced)
8. Perform a Voltage Drop Test
   Connect the positive multimeter lead to the battery's positive terminal and the negative lead to the pump motor's power wire. Activate the pump with a scan tool. A reading above 0.5V indicates excessive resistance in the power wire. Repeat for the ground side (reading must be under 0.2V).
   Tools: Multimeter, bi-directional scan tool, wiring diagram (Advanced)

When This Code Triggers (Freeze-Frame Conditions)

• Vehicle Speed: 0-5 mph (During initial system self-test at key-on or just as the vehicle starts moving.)
• Battery Voltage: 11.5-12.5V (Engine Off) or 13.2-14.8V (Engine On) (Code sets at any time, but low voltage during cranking triggers false codes.)
• RPM: 0 or 600-800 RPM (Triggers during the key-on self-check before the engine is running, or immediately after starting at idle.)
• ABS/TCS Status: Inactive/Monitoring (The fault is detected when the module performs a circuit integrity check before the ABS actively brakes.)

Related Codes

• C0110 — Both codes indicate an ABS pump motor circuit problem, but C0110 is a general malfunction code. C0117 specifically flags a 'Range/Performance' or 'Short to Battery' issue. The diagnostic process is identical.
• C0265 — C0265 points to a failure in the control side of the relay (the low-amperage circuit the ABS module uses). C0117 refers to the load side (the high-amperage circuit powering the pump). C0265 usually means a bad module, while C0117 points to the relay, fuse, or pump.
• C0267 / C0268 — These specify 'Pump Motor Circuit Open' (C0267) or 'Shorted' (C0268). They are more specific than C0117. C0267 requires testing for a broken wire, while C0268 requires finding a wire shorted to ground.
• U0121 — U0121 means 'Lost Communication with ABS Module'. If U0121 appears with C0117, the entire module is offline. Diagnose U0121 first by checking main power and ground fuses, as restoring communication often clears C0117.

Climate & Environmental Factors

• Road Salt and Moisture: Moisture and salt in snowy climates accelerate corrosion of the main EBCM ground connection, wiring harnesses, and connector pins, leading to high resistance and circuit faults.
• Thermal Cycling: Repeated heating and cooling cycles from engine operation cause microscopic cracks in the solder joints on the ABS module's internal circuit board, leading to intermittent pump motor failures.

How to Talk to a Mechanic About This Code

Say this: "I have an ABS light on and my scanner shows a C0117 code. Please instruct the technician to test the ABS pump fuse, the pump relay, and the main ground connection before quoting a module or pump replacement."

This signals you are an informed consumer. It directs the shop to follow a logical, cost-effective diagnostic path and establishes you will not approve an expensive repair without evidence that simple fixes were ruled out.

Avoid saying:

• 'My ABS light is on, can you just fix it?'
• 'Just replace whatever you think is broken.'
• 'I have no idea what's wrong, just tell me what it needs.'

Questions to ask before authorizing the repair:

• Did you test the ABS pump relay and the high-amperage fuse? Were they good?
• Did you physically locate and inspect the main ABS ground connection for corrosion?
• If recommending an ABS module or pump, what specific tests ruled out a wiring issue?
• Does the new part require programming, and is that cost included in the estimate?
• What is the warranty on the recommended repair for both parts and labor?

Where to Take It: Dealer vs Independent vs Chain

• Dealer: Use if the vehicle is under warranty. For out-of-warranty vehicles, get a second opinion from an independent shop before approving an expensive repair.
  Best for: Vehicles still under warranty., Vehicles less than 3 years old requiring specific OEM software., Complex programming requirements for a brand new module.
  Downsides: Highest labor rates and parts costs, often 1.5x to 2x an independent shop., More likely to recommend replacing the entire expensive ABS assembly rather than diagnosing a simpler fault. (Typical cost: +50% vs. baseline)
• Independent Shop: Best overall fit. A good independent shop with strong electrical diagnostic skills performs the thorough, component-level diagnosis required for C0117.
  Best for: Out-of-warranty vehicles where cost is a factor., Diagnosing common, well-documented issues like the GM ground fault., Vehicles where a rebuilt or repaired module is a viable option.
  Downsides: Shop quality and diagnostic skill vary widely. Vet the shop for ASE certifications., May lack the latest software for obscure or brand-new models. (Typical cost: +0% vs. baseline)
• Chain Shop: AVOID for diagnosis. They are generally not equipped for the in-depth electrical testing required to accurately diagnose a C0117.
  Best for: Simple, unrelated services like oil changes or tire rotations.
  Downsides: Technicians lack specialized training for complex electrical diagnostics., Business model incentivizes upselling unnecessary parts., High risk of misdiagnosing the issue or replacing parts without proper testing. (Typical cost: -10% vs. baseline)

When to Walk Away From the Repair

If the estimated repair cost exceeds 50% of the car's current private-party value, seriously consider selling or trading in the vehicle instead of repairing it.

• Car worth $8000, fix is $250: Fix it. This is a minor repair cost relative to the car's value.
• Car worth $5000, fix is $2800: Walk away. The repair cost is over 50% of the car's value.
• Car worth $3000, fix is $1500: Borderline. If the rest of the vehicle is in excellent condition, it might be worth it. If the car needs other work, walk away.

What Scan Tool You Need for This Code

Minimum: A scanner that reads ABS/Chassis (C-prefix) trouble codes. Basic engine-only code readers will not work.

A standard $20 code reader only communicates with the Engine Control Module (ECM) and reads 'P' codes. C0117 is stored in the ABS module, requiring an ABS-capable scanner.

Budget: BlueDriver Pro or Foxwell NT301 (~$70) — Reads and clears ABS codes, views live data from wheel speed sensors, and displays freeze frame data to confirm the code.

Mid-range: Innova 5610 or Autel MaxiCOM MK808S (~$350) — Provides bi-directional control to command the ABS pump motor ON and OFF directly from the tool, a critical diagnostic step. Initiates the ABS bleed procedure.

Professional: Autel MaxiSys MS906 Pro or Topdon Phoenix Series (~$600-1500) — Offers full OEM-level bidirectional control, advanced coding for module replacement, and detailed wiring diagrams directly on the tool.

Rent vs buy: Auto parts stores loan basic code readers, but these typically CANNOT read ABS codes. Buying a budget ABS scanner is a wise investment for DIY diagnostics.

How to Clear the Code After You Fix It

1. Perform the physical repair (e.g., replace relay, clean ground).
2. Reconnect the battery if it was disconnected.
3. Use an OBD-II scan tool to clear the trouble codes from the ABS module.
4. Perform a test drive to allow the module to re-run its self-tests.

Drive cycle (~10 minutes): Start the vehicle. Drive forward and accelerate to at least 15-20 mph. This allows the EBCM to perform its dynamic self-test. If the ABS light does not return after several minutes of driving and a few braking events, the repair is successful.

Readiness monitors affected: None directly by a C-code., All emissions readiness monitors reset to 'Not Ready' if the battery was disconnected.

Watch out for:

• Disconnecting the battery does not clear ABS codes on modern vehicles, but it erases emissions readiness data.
• The code returns immediately upon driving if the underlying electrical fault was not properly fixed.

Will This Fail Emissions / State Inspection?

No — by itself this code doesn't fail OBD inspection (but it can keep readiness monitors from setting, which causes a separate fail).

• California: An ABS light does NOT cause a Smog Check failure. The emissions test only fails for an illuminated Check Engine Light.
• New York: An illuminated ABS warning light WILL cause a failure of the annual NYS safety inspection. The vehicle cannot be legally driven until repaired.
• Texas: An ABS light does NOT cause an emissions test failure. As of 2025, most non-commercial vehicles are exempt from the safety inspection where the light previously caused a failure.

Most Commonly Affected Vehicles

• Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (2003-2016) — Extremely prone to a corroded EBCM ground connection located on the frame rail under the driver's door. Cleaning this ground point to bare metal resolves the code in most cases.
• GMC Sierra 1500 (2003-2016) — Shares the same platform and ABS components as the Chevrolet Silverado, making it susceptible to the exact same ground wire and EBCM issues.
• Ford F-150 (2009-2018) — ABS module failure is highly common. A replacement module must be programmed to the truck's VIN. Repairing the original module is the best option to avoid programming costs.
• Chevrolet Corvette (2005-2013) — The Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) is a known failure point due to cracked solder joints for the internal pump relay. Many specialists offer a repair service for this specific module.
• Cadillac Escalade (2007-2014) — Experiences similar ABS electrical faults as GM trucks. Also known for wiring harness chafing that causes communication loss codes misdiagnosed as a failed module.
• Chevrolet Express Van (2010-2017) — Diagnosing between a faulty ABS module and the pump motor is difficult because they are bolted together. Testing the motor directly is key to avoiding replacing the wrong part.
• Honda Pilot (2009-2017) — Susceptible to water intrusion into cabin connectors, specifically in the driver's side A-pillar, causing corrosion and triggering ABS circuit codes.
• Subaru Outback (2010-2019) — Prone to failure of the ABS hydraulic unit (actuator) containing the pump motor. This expensive repair is often accompanied by valve relay failure codes.

Manufacturer-Specific Notes

• General Motors (GM): On GM trucks and SUVs, the most common cause is a corroded ground wire for the EBCM located on the frame rail beneath the driver's side door. Cleaning this G103 or G104 ground connection resolves the issue without replacing parts.
• Ford: F-150 ABS modules fail frequently and must be programmed to the vehicle's VIN upon replacement. Having the original module repaired by a specialist service is a highly recommended alternative to buying a new dealer part.
• Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep: The 'Totally Integrated Power Module' (TIPM) fuse box fails internally. This causes a C0117 code by failing to send proper power to the ABS pump relay, even if the relay, fuse, and pump are healthy.
• Toyota/Lexus: On older hybrids, the brake actuator and pump assembly is a known failure point. A failure in the pump motor circuit requires replacing the entire expensive assembly. Regular brake fluid changes prolong its life.

Real Owner Stories

2007 Chevy Silverado, 155K miles - The Classic Ground Fix

Owner reported ABS and Brake lights came on intermittently, especially after driving on bumpy roads. No other symptoms were present.

What they tried:

1. Checked ABS fuses, which were all good.
2. Read online forums about common Silverado issues and found information about the EBCM ground wire.

Outcome: Located the main EBCM ground wire on the frame under the driver's door. The bolt and terminal were heavily corroded. Owner disconnected the battery, cleaned the frame and wire terminal to bare metal with a wire brush, applied dielectric grease, and reassembled. The lights went out permanently. Total cost was under $5.

Lesson: On GM trucks, the EBCM ground is a notorious failure point. Always inspect and clean this connection before suspecting expensive parts like the ABS module.

2002 Mercedes ML320, mileage unknown - The Misdiagnosed Relay

Driver noticed ABS lights on the dash. Upon returning home, a loud buzzing noise was heard from the engine bay, continuing even after the car was turned off.

What they tried:

1. Identified the noise was coming from the ABS pump.
2. Pulled the ABS pump relay, which immediately stopped the noise.

Outcome: The owner replaced the faulty, stuck relay with a new one. The ABS lights turned off, the noise vanished, and normal operation was restored. The simple relay swap fixed the root cause before the pump burned out.

Lesson: If the ABS pump runs continuously, immediately pull the relay or disconnect the battery to prevent the pump from burning out, which turns a $20 fix into a $1,500 repair.

2013 Ford F-150, mileage unknown - The Module Repair Saga

Owner experienced a cascade of dash warnings: Hill Descent Control Fault, Anti-Lock Brake Fault, and loss of power steering. Dealer diagnosed a bad ABS control module and quoted over $1,000.

What they tried:

1. Declined the expensive dealer repair.
2. Researched online and found third-party repair services for F-150 modules.

Outcome: The owner removed the original module and sent it to a specialist for a $250 flat-fee repair. The repaired module was reinstalled without needing expensive VIN programming. All faults cleared.

Lesson: For Ford vehicles, having your original ABS module repaired is a faster, cheaper, and more reliable DIY-friendly solution than buying a new dealer module requiring programming.

How to Prevent This Code From Triggering

• Change brake fluid every 2-3 years. (Every 2-3 years) — Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. This moisture causes internal corrosion of the delicate valves and pump inside the ABS unit, leading to seizure and failure.
• Clean and protect main electrical grounds. (Once every few years, or during other under-vehicle service.) — The main ABS ground is exposed to road salt. Proactively cleaning this connection to bare metal and coating it with dielectric grease prevents high resistance circuit codes.
• Apply dielectric grease to critical connectors. (Anytime the connector is disconnected for service.) — Applying non-conductive dielectric grease to the seal of the main ABS module connector blocks moisture and prevents corrosion on sensitive pins.
• Exercise the ABS system periodically. (Twice a year.) — Braking hard enough to activate the ABS on a safe, low-traction surface (like gravel) keeps the mechanical pump and valves from seizing due to inactivity.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it safe to drive my car with code C0117?

You can drive, but it is not recommended for long distances or in bad weather. Your regular brakes work, but the anti-lock feature is disabled. Your wheels will lock up and skid in a panic stop, significantly increasing the risk of losing control.

What are the most common misdiagnosis mistakes for code C0117?

The most common mistake is immediately replacing the expensive ABS pump or module without checking simple causes. Technicians and DIYers often overlook a corroded ground wire, a faulty relay, or a hairline crack in a high-amperage fuse. Always diagnose from the cheapest parts to the most expensive.

I replaced the ABS pump and module, but the C0117 code came back. What now?

If the code returns after replacing major components, the problem lies in the supporting electrical system. Perform a voltage drop test on the power and ground wires to check for hidden resistance. Verify the battery and alternator are providing stable voltage (13.2V-14.8V when running).

Do I need to program a new ABS module?

Many modern vehicles, especially Fords, require a new ABS module to be programmed to the vehicle's VIN and configuration. Failing to program it results in a non-functional module. Sending your original module to a specialist for repair avoids this expensive programming requirement.

Where is the ABS ground wire on a Chevy Silverado or GMC Sierra?

The main ground for the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) is located on the outside of the driver-side frame rail, near the body mount just behind the front wheel. It is a black wire bolted directly to the frame.

Can a weak battery cause a C0117 code?

Yes, a weak battery causes low voltage across the electrical system, triggering faults in sensitive modules like the ABS controller. Ensure your battery has at least 12.4 volts with the engine off and test the charging system when diagnosing electrical codes.

How can I prevent the C0117 code from happening?

Change your brake fluid every 2-3 years to prevent internal corrosion in the ABS unit. Periodically inspect and clean the main ABS ground connection, especially if you live in an area with heavy road salt usage.

What is the difference between code C0110 and C0117?

Both codes indicate an ABS pump motor circuit problem, but C0110 is a general malfunction code. C0117 specifically flags a 'Range/Performance' or 'Short to Battery' issue, meaning the module detects abnormal voltage rather than a complete open or short. The diagnostic process for both codes is virtually identical.

Key Takeaways

• Code C0117 indicates an electrical fault in the ABS pump motor circuit, instantly disabling your vehicle's anti-lock brakes and traction control.
• You can drive with a C0117 code, but braking distances on wet surfaces increase by over 10% and panic stops will cause uncontrolled skidding.
• Check the 30A to 60A ABS pump fuse and the 4-pin pump relay first, as replacing these $15-$30 parts resolves the code in many cases.
• Clean the main ABS ground wire connection on the vehicle frame to bare metal before spending $800 or more on a replacement control module.