2000-2009 Honda S2000 Rear Lower Control Arm: Solving Clunks and Seized Bolts
Your definitive guide to diagnosing bad rear lower control arms on the AP1 & AP2 S2000, tackling the infamous seized alignment bolts, and choosing the right replacement part.
- The most common failure is worn bushings, causing clunking noises and poor handling.
- Alignment bolts frequently seize inside the bushings, making alignment impossible and requiring the bolts to be cut out for removal.
- A professional four-wheel alignment is mandatory immediately after replacing the arm to prevent unsafe handling and rapid tire wear.
- Due to the high cost of new OEM arms, a used OEM arm with good bushings is a very common and recommended repair strategy.
Symptoms of a Failing Rear Lower Control Arm


Failure of the rear lower control arm is almost always due to worn-out rubber bushings, not the metal arm itself. When these bushings degrade, they allow excessive movement, leading to a series of noticeable symptoms.
1. Clunking or Popping Noises
The most common sign of a bad rear lower control arm is a distinct clunking, popping, or knocking sound coming from the rear of the car. This noise is most apparent when driving over bumps, potholes, or uneven road surfaces. You may also hear it during cornering or when the suspension articulates, such as when entering a steep driveway. The sound is caused by the metal inner sleeve of a worn bushing knocking against the control arm or the subframe.
2. Unstable Handling and Steering Wander
Worn bushings can create a feeling of instability or looseness in the rear of the car. You might notice the car wandering or pulling to one side, requiring constant steering corrections to keep it tracking straight. In some cases, you may experience a 'wobbly' or 'shimmy' feeling from the rear over bumps. This happens because the worn bushings can no longer hold the wheel securely in its correct alignment.
3. Uneven and Premature Tire Wear
A healthy control arm is essential for maintaining proper wheel alignment. When the bushings fail, the alignment settings—particularly camber and toe—can shift unpredictably. This leads to accelerated and uneven tire wear. A visual inspection of your rear tires might reveal excessive wear on the inside or outside shoulder, a clear sign that the suspension is not holding its geometry.
The #1 Problem: Seized Alignment Bolts

The single biggest challenge related to the S2000's rear lower control arms is seized alignment bolts. This issue is extremely common, especially in regions that use road salt.
Warning: The steel alignment bolts that pass through the control arm bushings have a tendency to rust and seize solid to the inner metal sleeve of the bushing. When this happens, it becomes impossible to perform a wheel alignment, and removing the control arm becomes a destructive process.
Why It Happens
The problem stems from a simple case of galvanic corrosion. The factory-installed bolts are made of steel, while the subframe they pass through is aluminum. Over time, moisture and salt create an electrochemical reaction that effectively welds the bolt to the bushing's inner sleeve. Since the bolts were not greased from the factory, this is a near-inevitable failure on cars exposed to the elements.
Diagnosis and Repair
An alignment technician will be the first to discover this problem when they are unable to turn the cam bolts to adjust camber and toe. For a DIY mechanic, attempting to loosen the bolt with a breaker bar will often result in either no movement or snapping the head off the bolt.
The standard solution is to cut the bolt out on both sides of the bushing using a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) or an angle grinder. This destroys the bolt and allows the control arm to be removed. You must have new OEM alignment bolts and nuts ready for reinstallation.
Buying a Used Rear Lower Control Arm
Given the high cost of new OEM control arms, a used OEM part is an excellent and popular choice for the S2000. The metal arm itself is very durable; the only concern is the condition of the integrated bushings.
What to Inspect
- Bushings are Key: There are three bushings on the arm. Carefully inspect the rubber of all three. Look for any signs of cracking, tearing, splitting, or deterioration. The rubber should be firm and intact.
- Check for Bends and Cracks: While rare, damage from an accident or major pothole impact can bend or crack the arm. Lay it on a flat surface to check for any warping.
- Surface Corrosion: Surface rust on the cast iron arm is normal and purely cosmetic. It does not affect the structural integrity of the part. Do not worry about surface rust unless it is deep and flaking, indicating extreme neglect.
Why Used OEM is Often Better Than New Aftermarket
For a precision-handling car like the S2000, maintaining the exact factory suspension geometry is crucial. A genuine used Honda arm is guaranteed to have the correct dimensions. Many cheap, new aftermarket arms may use lower-quality rubber for the bushings, which can wear out quickly or provide a mushy, unresponsive feel. Unless you are upgrading to a known performance brand like Hardrace, a good-condition used OEM arm is a safer and often more reliable choice.
Cost of Replacement
The cost to replace a rear lower control arm can vary significantly based on whether the alignment bolts are seized.
| Part / Service | Estimated Cost (Per Side) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| New OEM Arm | $600 - $915 | Price from Honda dealers and online retailers. |
| New Aftermarket Arm | $100 - $250 | Quality and geometry can be a concern. Recommended brands like Hardrace may cost more. |
| Used OEM Arm | $75 - $150 | A cost-effective and reliable option if bushings are in good condition. |
| Shop Labor | $200 - $500+ | Labor is typically 1.5-3 hours per side. Cost increases significantly if bolts must be cut out. |
| Wheel Alignment | $100 - $200 | Mandatory after replacement. |
Replacement Overview & Special Procedures

Replacing the rear lower control arm is a job of moderate difficulty that can become very hard if bolts are seized.
Pro Tip: Before starting the job, purchase new OEM alignment cam bolts, nuts, and washers. It is highly likely you will need to destroy the old ones to get them out.
Key Steps
- Safely raise and support the vehicle on jack stands and remove the rear wheel.
- Disconnect the sway bar end link from the control arm.
- Remove the lower shock bolt that passes through the control arm.
- Disconnect the control arm from the rear knuckle. This may involve the lower ball joint stud.
- Attempt to loosen and remove the two large alignment bolts holding the arm to the subframe. If they are seized, they will need to be cut out with a reciprocating saw.
- Install the new control arm. Loosely tighten the bolts.
- Re-attach all other components.
- CRITICAL: With the wheel back on, lower the car onto ramps or blocks so the full weight is on the suspension. Only then should you tighten the main control arm bolts to their final torque specifications. This procedure, known as 'clocking the bushings', prevents them from being under constant tension and failing prematurely.
- Take the vehicle for a professional four-wheel alignment immediately.
Important Torque Specs
Always use a torque wrench for final assembly. These specs are for reference; verify with a service manual for your specific year.
- Lower Control Arm to Subframe Bolts (Cam Bolts): 58 ft-lbs (78 Nm)
- Shock Absorber Lower Bolt: 47 ft-lbs (64 Nm)
- Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut: 43-51 ft-lbs (59-69 Nm)
Technical Specifications & Part Numbers
OEM Part Numbers
These parts fit all 2000-2009 Honda S2000 models (AP1 & AP2).
- Right (Passenger Side) Rear Lower Control Arm: 52350-S2A-000
- Left (Driver Side) Rear Lower Control Arm: 52360-S2A-000
The arms come with new bushings pre-installed from Honda. Mounting hardware and the ball joint are not included.
Related Part Numbers (Highly Recommended)
- Rear Adjusting Bolt (Cam Bolt): 52387-S2A-000
- Rear Camber Adjusting Plate: 52388-S2A-000
- Flange Nut (14mm): 90216-S2A-000
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I just replace the bushings instead of the whole arm?
Yes, but it requires special tools. Honda does not sell the bushings separately, but aftermarket companies like Hardrace, Spoon, and Mugen offer hardened rubber replacements. You will need a hydraulic press to remove the old bushings and install the new ones, which can be difficult. For many, replacing the entire arm with a good used unit is faster and easier.
Is a wheel alignment really necessary after replacement?
Yes, it is absolutely mandatory. Replacing the control arm completely changes the rear suspension geometry. Skipping the alignment will result in poor handling, instability, and will destroy your rear tires in a very short time.
My alignment bolts are seized. What should I do?
If penetrating oil and a large breaker bar don't work, the only reliable method is to cut the bolts out using a reciprocating saw or angle grinder. You will need to cut on both sides of the bushing, between the control arm and the subframe mount. Be prepared with new OEM bolts, nuts, and cam plates for reassembly.
Are there any recalls for the S2000 rear suspension?
No. As of mid-2026, there have been no safety recalls issued by the NHTSA for the control arms or any other rear suspension components on the 2000-2009 Honda S2000. Recalls for this vehicle pertain to other systems like seat belts and brake boosters.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 52350-S2A-000 (Right Rear Lower) 52360-S2A-000 (Left Rear Lower)
Material: Cast Iron. Includes three pre-installed rubber bushings. Fits all 2000-2009 Honda S2000 models (AP1 & AP2).
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
- Honda S2000:
- Symptoms of a Failing Rear Lower Control Arm
- 1. Clunking or Popping Noises
- 2. Unstable Handling and Steering Wander
- 3. Uneven and Premature Tire Wear
- The #1 Problem: Seized Alignment Bolts
- Why It Happens
- Diagnosis and Repair
- Buying a Used Rear Lower Control Arm
- What to Inspect
- Why Used OEM is Often Better Than New Aftermarket
- Cost of Replacement
- Replacement Overview & Special Procedures
- Key Steps
- Important Torque Specs
- Technical Specifications & Part Numbers
- OEM Part Numbers
- Related Part Numbers (Highly Recommended)
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- 🎟️ Get 5% Off