2007-2011 Audi S6 & 2007 S8 Intake Manifold: Fixing the V10's Common Rattle and Power Loss
The 5.2L V10's complex intake manifold has a guaranteed failure point in its plastic runner flaps; this guide explains the symptoms, causes, and how to buy a good used replacement.
- The internal plastic runner flaps are a guaranteed failure point; it is a matter of when, not if, they will break.
- The root cause of failure is severe carbon buildup on the intake valves, which must be cleaned when the manifold is replaced.
- When buying a used manifold, the most important check is to physically inspect the external linkage arms for cracks or damage.
- A new OEM manifold is extremely expensive, making a good, inspected used part the most cost-effective solution for most owners.
Symptoms of a Failing Intake Manifold
A failing intake manifold on the Audi S6 and S8 V10 will give you clear warning signs. The issues almost always trace back to the internal variable runner flaps or the heavy carbon buildup that plagues these direct-injection engines.
Check Engine Light with P2006 & P2007 Codes
The most common indicator is a Check Engine Light. When you scan the vehicle's computer, you will likely find codes P2006 (Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed, Bank 1) and/or P2007 (Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed, Bank 2). These codes mean the engine's computer (ECU) has commanded the flaps to open (for high-RPM power) but the position sensors report that they have not moved. This is a definitive sign that the flap mechanism is either stuck or broken.
Audible Rattling Noise from the Engine Bay
A distinct plastic rattling sound, especially just above idle, is a tell-tale sign of this issue. The sound comes from the broken plastic linkage arms for the runner flaps vibrating inside the manifold. As the plastic components age and become brittle from engine heat, they eventually crack and break, leaving the flaps loose.
Significant Loss of Power
Because the flaps usually fail in the 'closed' position (long runner path), you will notice a significant lack of power at higher engine speeds. The car may feel sluggish and breathless during hard acceleration, as the engine is being choked by the restrictive long-runner airflow path when it needs the high-flow short-runner path.
Rough Idle and Misfires
A rough idle, especially when the engine is cold, can also be a symptom. This is often caused by severe carbon buildup on the intake ports and valves, which disrupts airflow at low speeds. In some cases, the incorrect airflow from stuck flaps can also contribute to misfires.
Warning: If the internal flaps break apart, there is a risk that small pieces of plastic can be ingested by the engine. This can cause catastrophic damage to the cylinder walls, pistons, or valves, potentially requiring a complete engine replacement.
Known Issues for the S6 & S8 5.2L V10
The problems with this intake manifold are not random. They stem from two specific, well-known issues with the Audi 5.2L FSI V10 engine platform.
1. Brittle Plastic Internal Components
The primary point of failure is the plastic material used for the runner flaps and their connecting linkages inside the manifold. Over years of heat cycles, this plastic becomes extremely brittle and weak. Eventually, the linkage arms that connect the flaps to the external vacuum actuators will snap. It is widely considered a matter of 'when,' not 'if,' this will happen on an original manifold.
2. Severe Carbon Buildup
As a Fuel Stratified Injection (FSI) engine, fuel is injected directly into the cylinders, not into the intake ports. This means there is no fuel to wash over the intake valves and keep them clean. Over time, oil vapor from the crankcase ventilation (PCV) system bakes onto the hot intake valves and ports, forming thick carbon deposits. This buildup physically restricts the movement of the runner flaps, putting immense strain on the already-brittle plastic linkages until they break. Carbon buildup is the root cause of the mechanical failure.
Buying a Used Intake Manifold: What to Check
Given that a new OEM intake manifold can cost over $3,000, a good used unit is the most practical choice for most owners. However, you must inspect it carefully to avoid buying a part that has the same problems as your old one.
Step 1: Verify the Part Number
Audi has updated this part several times. The newest known part number is 07L133185M. Earlier versions include 07L133185, 07L133185C, and 07L133185G. Always try to get the latest revision possible (G or M), as it may have improvements to the plastic materials.
Step 2: Inspect the External Linkage and Actuators
This is the most critical inspection. Look at the front of the manifold where the two round, black vacuum actuators are located. Check the plastic linkage arms that connect these actuators to the manifold. Ensure they are not cracked, broken, or showing signs of a sloppy glue repair. Ask the seller to apply vacuum to the actuators with a hand pump to confirm the arms move smoothly and hold vacuum. A torn diaphragm inside the actuator will cause a vacuum leak and prevent the flaps from opening.
Step 3: Look Inside the Runners for Damage and Carbon
Ask the seller for clear photos looking down into the intake runners. You are looking for two things:
- Broken Flaps: Make sure all the internal flaps are present and appear intact. If any are missing or visibly broken, the manifold is junk.
- Carbon Buildup: Some carbon staining is normal, but avoid manifolds that are caked with thick, heavy deposits. A cleaner manifold is a better starting point.
Why Used OEM is the Best Option
For this specific part, there are no reputable aftermarket alternatives. The complexity of the variable runner system means that cheap copies would likely fail even faster than the original. A thoroughly inspected, used OEM manifold from a lower-mileage vehicle, especially a later 'G' or 'M' revision, offers the best balance of reliability and value.
Replacement Overview & Difficulty
Replacing the intake manifold on the 5.2L V10 is a difficult and time-consuming job.
- Difficulty Rating: 4 out of 5
- Estimated Time: 6-8 hours
- DIY Feasible?: For advanced mechanics only. The job requires disconnecting high-pressure fuel lines, numerous electrical connectors, and carefully navigating a very tight engine bay.
Pro Tip: It is absolutely essential to perform a full intake valve carbon cleaning service while the manifold is removed. Installing a new or used manifold without cleaning the carbon from the intake ports will cause the problem to reoccur quickly, as the flaps will still be restricted by the deposits.
Cost to Replace the Intake Manifold
The cost can vary significantly depending on the parts source and labor rates.
| Part/Service | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New OEM Manifold | $3,100 - $4,900+ |
| New Aftermarket Manifold | Not Available |
| Used OEM Manifold | $800 - $1,200 |
| Shop Labor (Manifold R&R) | $1,200 - $1,800 |
| Shop Labor (Carbon Cleaning) | $800 - $1,200 (often done at the same time) |
| Total Estimated Job (Used Part + Labor + Carbon Clean) | $2,800 - $4,200 |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I just delete the intake runner flaps?
Yes, some owners choose to remove the internal flaps and linkage entirely, which permanently prevents them from breaking and falling into the engine. However, this can cause a persistent Check Engine Light and may affect cold start idling and low-end torque unless the vehicle's ECU is reprogrammed with a specific tune to account for the change.
What is the primary cause of the intake manifold failure?
The root cause is heavy carbon buildup on the intake ports and valves, which is a common issue on these direct-injection engines. This carbon restricts the movement of the flaps, putting stress on the brittle plastic linkage arms until they snap.
Is it mandatory to perform a carbon cleaning service when replacing the manifold?
Yes, absolutely. The intake manifold must be removed to access the intake ports for cleaning. Failing to clean the carbon deposits while the manifold is off will likely cause the flaps in the replacement manifold to fail prematurely.
Can I just replace the broken plastic linkage arms instead of the whole manifold?
No, the internal linkage arms are not sold separately and are integrated into the manifold assembly. While some people have attempted custom repairs, the only official and reliable solution is to replace the entire intake manifold assembly.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 07L133185 07L133185C 07L133185G 07L133185M
Variable-length intake runner system with internal flaps operated by two external vacuum actuators.
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
- Audi S6:
- Audi S8:
- Symptoms of a Failing Intake Manifold
- Check Engine Light with P2006 & P2007 Codes
- Audible Rattling Noise from the Engine Bay
- Significant Loss of Power
- Rough Idle and Misfires
- Known Issues for the S6 & S8 5.2L V10
- 1. Brittle Plastic Internal Components
- 2. Severe Carbon Buildup
- Buying a Used Intake Manifold: What to Check
- Step 1: Verify the Part Number
- Step 2: Inspect the External Linkage and Actuators
- Step 3: Look Inside the Runners for Damage and Carbon
- Why Used OEM is the Best Option
- Replacement Overview & Difficulty
- Cost to Replace the Intake Manifold
- Frequently Asked Questions
- 🎟️ Get 5% Off