2000-2004 Chrysler 300M, Concorde, LHS & Intrepid Ignition Switch: Stalling and No-Start Fixes
Diagnose and replace the ignition switch on your Chrysler 300M, Concorde, LHS, or Dodge Intrepid and understand its link to stalling and no-start problems.
- This ignition switch requires NO programming; you reuse your existing key, lock cylinder, and anti-theft module.
- A key symptom is the engine stalling while driving, which is a major safety hazard.
- If your car starts and dies after 2 seconds, the problem is likely the SKIM (immobilizer) module, NOT the ignition switch.
- The OEM part (5014176AA) is discontinued, making a quality used OEM part a smart choice over new aftermarket alternatives.
Symptoms of a Failing Ignition Switch
A bad ignition switch on a Chrysler 300M, Concorde, LHS, or Dodge Intrepid can cause problems that may seem unrelated. Because the switch controls power to so many different components, its failure can mimic other issues. Watch for these common signs:
- Engine Stalls While Driving: This is one of the most serious symptoms. The switch can momentarily lose electrical contact, cutting power to the fuel pump and ignition system, which shuts the engine off without warning. This can happen when hitting a bump or turning the steering wheel.
- No-Crank / No-Start: You turn the key to the 'Start' position and nothing happens. The starter motor doesn't even make a clicking sound because the switch isn't sending the signal to the starter circuit.
- Starts and Immediately Stalls: The engine fires up for a second while the key is held in the 'Start' position, but dies as soon as you release it to the 'On' position. This happens because the switch fails to maintain power to the ignition system once the engine is running.
- Flickering Dashboard Lights and Gauges: As the switch's internal contacts wear out, they can make an inconsistent connection, causing dashboard lights, the radio, or climate controls to flicker or cut out intermittently.
- Key Feels Loose or Won't Spring Back: While often related to the mechanical lock cylinder, a broken internal actuator pin that connects the cylinder to the switch can cause the key to turn with no 'clicks' or detents. This prevents the switch from activating properly.
- Accessories Don't Work in 'ACC' or 'On' Position: The radio, power windows, or other systems may fail to power on when the key is in the Accessory or On position, even if the car eventually starts.
Diagnosing the Ignition Switch
A simple test can often point to a worn ignition switch. With the vehicle parked and the engine running, gently wiggle the key in the ignition. If wiggling the key causes the engine to sputter, the dashboard lights to flicker, or the engine to stall completely, the electrical contacts inside the ignition switch are likely worn out and making a poor connection.
Pro Tip: A 'no-crank' is when the starter motor does not turn at all. A 'cranks but no-start' is when the engine turns over but never fires up. A bad ignition switch can cause either of these, but a complete silence when you turn the key often points to the switch or starter relay.
Known Issues, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)
While Chrysler (and its parent companies) issued several large-scale recalls for faulty ignition switches in the 2010s, the 2000-2004 Chrysler 300M, Concorde, LHS, and Dodge Intrepid were not included in these major safety campaigns. Searches of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) database do not show any recalls specifically for ignition switch failure on these models. Likewise, there are no widespread Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for this specific part and vehicle group. Most issues are related to normal wear and tear over time.
Warning: Do NOT confuse the ignition switch with the anti-theft system. If your car starts, runs for 2-3 seconds, and then shuts off, the problem is almost certainly the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM), not the ignition switch. This happens when the computer loses communication with the transponder chip in your key. Replacing the ignition switch will not fix a SKIM problem.
Buying a Used Ignition Switch: What to Look For
Since Mopar has discontinued the original OEM ignition switch, the used market is your best source for a quality replacement. A good-quality used OEM switch is often more reliable than a cheap, new aftermarket alternative due to better materials and construction.
When buying a used switch, here’s what to inspect:
- Inspect the Connector: This is the most important step. The switch for these vehicles uses a 9-terminal connector. Carefully inspect the plastic connector housing for any signs of melting, discoloration, or charring. Check each of the nine male pins to ensure they are straight, clean, and free of corrosion. A damaged connector is a major red flag.
- Verify the Part Number: The most common OEM part number is 5014176AA. This number supersedes the older part number 4760844AB. Ensure the part you are buying matches.
- No Programming Needed: Remember, you are only buying the electrical switch. You will reuse your car's original lock cylinder (where the key goes in) and the SKIM immobilizer module. Because of this, a used switch is a simple plug-and-play part that does not require programming or a visit to the dealer.
- Check the Actuator Slot: Look at the slot where the actuator from the lock cylinder engages the switch. Ensure it is not cracked or broken.
Cost Comparison
Replacing the ignition switch is a relatively inexpensive repair, especially if you do it yourself. Here is an estimated cost breakdown:
| Part Type | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New OEM | $0 (Discontinued) |
| New Aftermarket | $25 - $60 |
| Used OEM | $20 - $45 |
| Shop Labor | $85 - $125 |
Replacement Overview
Replacing the ignition switch is feasible for a DIY mechanic with basic tools. The switch is located on the steering column, attached to the back of the ignition lock cylinder housing.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Remove the plastic shrouds (clamshell) around the steering column. This usually involves removing a few Phillips or Torx screws from the underside.
- Lower the tilt steering wheel to its lowest position to improve access.
- The ignition switch is typically held in place with two small screws (often E-Torx or regular Torx).
- Unplug the electrical connector from the back of the switch, remove the screws, and pull the old switch off.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. Ensure the new switch is properly aligned with the lock cylinder actuator before tightening it down.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need to program a new ignition switch?
No. The ignition switch itself is a non-programmable electrical part. The anti-theft system, called the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM), is a separate component that is paired with your key and engine computer. You will reuse your existing SKIM and lock cylinder, so no programming is required.
Will I need new keys if I replace the ignition switch?
No. You are only replacing the electrical switch on the back of the ignition assembly. You will continue to use your original ignition lock cylinder and your original keys.
What's the difference between the ignition switch and the ignition lock cylinder?
The ignition lock cylinder is the mechanical tumbler that your key slides into. The ignition switch is the electronic part that the lock cylinder turns. They are two separate parts that work together. If your key is physically hard to turn or gets stuck, the problem is likely the lock cylinder. If you have electrical issues like stalling or a no-start, the problem is more likely the ignition switch.
Can I replace the ignition switch myself?
Yes, this is a very DIY-friendly job for someone with basic hand tools. It typically involves removing the plastic covers around the steering column to access the switch. The job usually takes less than an hour and does not require any special procedures.
Compatible Part Numbers
| Part Number | Brand | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 5014176AA | Mopar / Chrysler / Dodge | Primary OEM part number. |
| 05014176AA | Mopar / Chrysler / Dodge | Alternate format of the same OEM number. |
| 4760844AB | Mopar | Superseded by 5014176AA. |
| 05003843AB | Mopar | An earlier part number that may also interchange. |
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 5014176AA 05014176AA 4760844AB 05003843AB
Connector Type: 9-Pin Blade Connector
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
- Chrysler 300M:
- Chrysler Concorde:
- Chrysler LHS:
- Dodge Intrepid:
- 🛍️ Shop This Part
- Symptoms of a Failing Ignition Switch
- Diagnosing the Ignition Switch
- Known Issues, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)
- Buying a Used Ignition Switch: What to Look For
- Cost Comparison
- Replacement Overview
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- Compatible Part Numbers
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