1998-1999 Acura CL Ignition Switch: Stalling, Recalls, and Replacement Guide

Critical Safety Recalls for 1998-1999 Acura CL

Before diagnosing or replacing your ignition switch, you must be aware of two major safety recalls that affect this part. Your vehicle may be eligible for a free repair at an Acura dealership.

You can check if these recalls have been performed on your vehicle by entering your VIN on the NHTSA or Acura owner's website.

Symptoms of a Failing Ignition Switch

A bad ignition switch can cause a variety of strange electrical problems. The most common symptoms include:

• Engine Stalls While Driving: The most dangerous symptom. The engine may shut off completely, often causing all the dashboard warning lights to illuminate as if you just turned the key on.
• Intermittent No-Start: You turn the key, and nothing happens, or you only hear a single click. The dashboard lights may or may not come on. Trying again might work, indicating a poor internal connection.
• Car Starts and Immediately Dies: The engine fires up but stalls right away as the switch fails to keep power flowing to the ignition and fuel systems.
• Key is Hard to Turn or Gets Stuck: This points to a mechanical failure in the lock cylinder itself, rather than the electrical switch.
• Accessories Don't Work Correctly: The radio, power windows, or climate control may not work in the 'ACC' or 'ON' positions, or they may cut out intermittently.

No specific OBD-II trouble codes point directly to a failing ignition switch. The failure often happens before the main computer is fully powered, or the power loss is so abrupt it doesn't have time to register a specific fault, though it may cause a variety of communication error codes with other modules.

The Most Important Choice: Electrical Switch vs. Full Assembly

The most crucial thing to understand is that the ignition system is made of two main parts that can be bought and replaced separately:

1. The Electrical Ignition Switch: This is a small plastic and metal component that bolts to the back of the lock cylinder. It contains the electrical contacts that wear out and cause stalling. This part is inexpensive and relatively easy to replace.
2. The Ignition Lock Cylinder Assembly: This is the entire mechanical housing that includes the lock your key fits into, the immobilizer pickup ring, and the steering lock mechanism. It is expensive and very difficult to replace.

Buying a Used Ignition Switch: What to Look For

A used OEM electrical switch is an excellent, budget-friendly repair option. However, buying a complete used assembly comes with significant challenges.

Option 1: Buying a Used Electrical Switch (Recommended)

• Compatibility: The electrical switch (OEM Part # 35130-S84-A01 or 35130-S84-305) is the same for both automatic and manual transmission models. It is also shared with many other Honda and Acura models of the era, like the Accord and TL.
• What to Inspect: Check for any cracks in the plastic housing. Ensure the connector pins are straight and free of corrosion. Look for signs of overheating or melting, which would be a major red flag.
• Value: A used OEM switch is often higher quality than a cheap new aftermarket part. Since this part was the subject of a recall, even a used replacement is likely an updated, more durable version.

Option 2: Buying a Used Full Assembly (Use Caution)

• Compatibility is Key: You MUST buy an assembly that matches your vehicle's transmission type. The assembly for an automatic has a shift interlock mechanism that the manual version lacks. They are not interchangeable.
• Must Include Matching Keys: The assembly must come with the original keys that were used with it. The immobilizer chip is inside the key head, and the car's computer will need to be programmed to accept these new keys. Without the matching keys, the part is useless.
• Inspect for Smooth Operation: If possible, test the key in the lock. It should turn smoothly without binding from the LOCK to START positions.

Immobilizer and Programming Requirements

Your Acura CL is equipped with a transponder-based immobilizer system for theft prevention.

• If you replace ONLY the electrical switch: No programming is needed. You will reuse your original lock cylinder and keys, so the car's security system is not affected.
• If you replace the ENTIRE lock cylinder assembly: You MUST have the new keys programmed to your car's computer (ECU). The car will not start until this is done. This procedure requires special diagnostic equipment and must be performed by an Acura dealer or a qualified automotive locksmith. Expect to pay between $75 and $250 for this service.

Replacement Overview & Difficulty

Replacing the Electrical Switch Only (DIY Feasible)

• Difficulty: 2 out of 5
• Time: 0.5 - 1 hour
• Process: Disconnect the battery. Remove the plastic covers around the steering column (typically 3 Phillips screws). The electrical switch is at the back of the lock cylinder, held on by two small screws. Unplug the wire harness connector, swap the switch, and reassemble.

Replacing the Full Lock Cylinder Assembly (Professional Recommended)

• Difficulty: 5 out of 5
• Time: 2 - 4 hours
• Process: This job is difficult due to the two security shear bolts that hold the assembly to the steering column. These bolts are installed at the factory and their heads are designed to snap off, leaving a smooth, rounded top that cannot be turned with a normal socket.
• Removing Shear Bolts: Removal requires either a sharp chisel to hammer the bolts counter-clockwise, or carefully using a Dremel tool with a cutting disc to slice a groove into the bolt head, allowing you to use a flathead screwdriver to remove it. This must be done carefully to avoid damaging the steering column.

Pro Tip: When installing the new assembly, do not use new shear bolts. Instead, use standard M8 hex-head bolts of the same length and thread pitch. This will make any future repairs vastly easier.

Cost Comparison

Labor Costs:

• Electrical Switch Replacement: $75 - $125
• Full Assembly Replacement: $200 - $400 (due to shear bolts)
• Key Programming (if needed): $75 - $250

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)