2014-2020 Jaguar F-Type Hub & Bearing Failure: Decoding Noises and RWD vs. AWD Parts

Symptoms of a Failing F-Type Hub or Bearing

A failing wheel hub or bearing on your F-Type will almost always announce itself with distinct sounds that change with speed. Ignoring these signs can lead to more severe suspension damage or, in a worst-case scenario, wheel separation.

• Humming, Roaring, or Grinding Noise: This is the most common symptom. The noise sounds like a loud tire hum or a deep grinding that gets louder and higher in pitch as you accelerate. It's often noticeable above 15-20 mph.
• Noise Changes While Turning: A key diagnostic clue is how the sound changes when you steer. If you turn right and the noise gets louder, the failing bearing is likely on the left side of the car (as more weight shifts to the outside wheel). If you turn left and it gets louder, the problem is likely on theright side.
• Clicking or Snapping Sounds: You might hear a clicking or snapping sound, especially while turning or driving at low speeds.
• Vibration in the Steering Wheel: As the bearing wears, it can develop excessive play, leading to a vibration you can feel in the steering wheel or through the floor of the car.
• ABS or DSC Warning Lights: The hub assembly contains the magnetic encoder ring that the wheel speed sensor reads. When the bearing fails, it can damage this ring or create enough wobble to cause an erratic signal, triggering the ABS and stability control warning lights on your dashboard.

Known Issues, Recalls, and Service Bulletins

While there are no widespread recalls for F-Type hub or bearing failures, two related safety recalls are important to be aware of:

• Recall H335 (NHTSA 21V-167): Affecting certain 2020 F-Type models, this software-related recall addresses an issue where the ABS and Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) systems could fail to initialize on startup. While not a mechanical hub issue, it can cause the same warning lights as a bad wheel speed sensor. The fix is a simple software update performed by a dealer.
• Recall J076: This recall was issued for a very small number of 2017 F-Type SVR models. It involves a bolt connecting the rear lower control arm to the knuckle assembly that could fail, potentially leading to a separation of the control arm and a loss of vehicle control. This highlights the importance of checking the integrity of all suspension components in that area during a hub replacement.

F-Type Hub Variants: A Critical Guide

Not all F-Type hubs are the same. Ordering the wrong part is a common and costly mistake. The part you need depends on your vehicle's drivetrain (RWD vs. AWD) and the axle (front vs. rear).

Front Hubs: Bolt-On Assemblies

The front hubs on all 2014-2020 F-Types are complete, sealed wheel hub and bearing assemblies. They are designed to be unbolted from the steering knuckle and replaced as a single unit. This makes them feasible for a skilled DIY mechanic to replace.

• Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) Models: Use part number C2P24802 (which supersedes C2Z32538). This is a bolt-on assembly specific to RWD cars.
• All-Wheel Drive (AWD) Models: Use part number T2R17023. This assembly accommodates the front drive axle.

Rear Hubs: Press-In Bearings

The rear axle is a completely different design. It does not use a simple bolt-on assembly. Instead, a standalone wheel bearing (Part No. 510073 is a common aftermarket reference) is pressed into the aluminum rear knuckle. The wheel hub itself is then pressed into the center of the new bearing.

• Standard Models: Use a standard rear hub.
• SVR and R Performance Models: These high-performance models require a specific rear hub, part number T2R22189. Always verify compatibility with your VIN.

Buying a Used 2014-2020 F-Type Hub

A used OEM hub can be a smart purchase, offering original factory quality at a significant discount compared to a new dealer part. However, careful inspection is critical.

• Why Used OEM?: Original Jaguar hubs are made with high-quality steel and precise manufacturing tolerances. A low-mileage used OEM part is often a more reliable choice than a new, cheaply made aftermarket part that may use inferior bearings and fail prematurely.
• Physical Inspection (Front Assemblies): For a front bolt-on assembly, hold the inner and outer halves and try to turn them. The rotation should be perfectly smooth and silent. Any roughness, grinding, or clicking means the bearing is bad. Try to wiggle the hub flange; there should be absolutely zero play or wobble.
• Physical Inspection (Rear Components): When buying a used rear hub, you are often buying the entire knuckle assembly with the bearing and hub already pressed in. Check for any cracks or signs of heavy impact on the aluminum knuckle. The most important factor is the mileage of the donor vehicle—lower is always better.
• Compatibility Check: Double-check the part number and whether it came from a RWD or AWD model (for front hubs) or a standard vs. SVR/R model (for rear hubs). This is the most important step.
• Mileage as a Factor: Wheel bearings typically last between 75,000 and 150,000 miles, but this can vary. A hub from a vehicle with under 50,000 miles is an excellent candidate. Be cautious of parts from vehicles with over 100,000 miles, as the bearing may be nearing the end of its service life.

Cost Comparison

Prices can vary significantly between OEM, aftermarket, and used options. Labor for the press-in rear bearings is also considerably higher than for the bolt-on front assemblies.

Labor Costs:

• Front Hub Assembly Replacement: $100 - $150 per side.
• Rear Bearing Replacement (Press-in): $250 - $400+ per side due to the need to remove the knuckle and use a shop press.

Frequently Asked Questions