2011-2014 Dodge Charger Hood: Decoding Styles and Fixing the 'Hood Ajar' Sensor Fault

Understanding Hood Variations for the 2011-2014 Charger

Before buying a replacement hood for a 2011-2014 Dodge Charger, it's critical to identify which type your vehicle has, as several variations were available that are not always interchangeable without modification.

Material: Steel vs. Aluminum

Chargers of this generation came with hoods made of either steel or aluminum. The standard hood, found on most SE, SXT, and R/T models, is typically steel. Performance trims like the SRT8 often featured lighter aluminum hoods. Aftermarket hoods are also available in fiberglass and carbon fiber.

• Steel Hoods: Heavier but more resistant to dents and less likely to flutter at high speeds. They are also less expensive and easier to repair. However, if the paint or e-coat is compromised, they are more prone to rust. The common OEM part number 68089361AB refers to a standard steel hood.
• Aluminum Hoods: Significantly lighter, which can offer a minor performance benefit. They are more resistant to corrosion but are softer, easier to dent, and can sometimes vibrate or 'flutter' at highway speeds.

Style: Standard vs. SRT & Aftermarket

Beyond the material, the hood's style is the most important factor. The primary styles are the standard 'flat' hood and the SRT-style hood with a functional scoop or heat extractors.

• Standard Hood: This is the smooth, non-scooped hood equipped on the majority of Chargers.
• SRT-Style Hood: These hoods feature a prominent center scoop (for ram air) or dual heat extractor vents. While an SRT hood can often be physically bolted to a non-SRT Charger as a popular cosmetic upgrade, it may require additional parts like scoop bezels or ducting to be fully functional.

Common Problems and Symptoms of Failure

Aside from obvious collision damage, 2011-2014 Charger hoods can experience several specific issues.

1. 'Remote Start Aborted - Hood Ajar' Message

This is the most common non-damage-related failure. The vehicle's remote start system will not work and the dashboard displays a 'Hood Ajar' warning, even when the hood is securely closed. This is almost always caused by a failed position sensor that is integrated into the hood latch assembly. The sensor itself is not sold separately, so the entire latch mechanism must be replaced.

2. Mechanical Latch Failure

The latch mechanism can also fail mechanically. Symptoms include:

• The hood will not stay closed when shut.
• The hood release handle inside the car feels stiff, loose, or does not spring back into place.
• The hood is difficult to open, requiring you to pull the release while someone else lifts the hood.

3. Misalignment and Gaps

An improperly aligned hood can cause uneven gaps with the fenders, bumper, and headlights. This can lead to paint chipping, difficulty latching, and wind noise. In most cases, alignment can be corrected by adjusting the two rubber bump stops located on the radiator support. Turning them counter-clockwise raises the hood, while turning them clockwise lowers it. More significant adjustments can be made at the hinge bolts where the hood attaches to the body.

Buying a Used 2011-2014 Charger Hood: A Step-by-Step Inspection Guide

A used OEM hood is often a better choice than a cheap aftermarket alternative due to superior fit, finish, and material quality. However, careful inspection is key to avoiding a damaged part.

1. Check for Hidden Bodywork: Look at the hood's surface from a sharp angle in good light. Look for ripples, waves, or variations in the paint texture that could indicate previous damage repaired with body filler (Bondo). Run a magnet over the entire surface; if it fails to stick in some areas on a steel hood, that's a red flag for filler.
2. Inspect the Edges and Seams: Flip the hood over and carefully inspect the crimped seams along all four edges. This is where rust often starts. Look for any swelling, flaking paint, or visible corrosion.
3. Verify Mounting Points: Check the threaded holes for the hinge bolts and the latch striker loop. Ensure the threads are clean and not stripped. Make sure the metal around these points is not bent, cracked, or fatigued.
4. Confirm the Material: Use a magnet to confirm if the hood is steel or aluminum. Ensure you are buying the correct material for your needs to avoid surprises with weight and dent resistance.
5. Look for Kinks or Bends: Even a minor bend can make alignment impossible. Look down the length of the hood from the front and back to spot any subtle twisting or warping.

Known Issues, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)

There are no active recalls from the NHTSA for the hood panel, latch, or hinges on the 2011-2014 Dodge Charger.

However, several unrelated recalls exist for this vehicle generation:

• NHTSA Recall 14V-634: Addresses potential alternator failure on models with the 3.6L engine and 160-amp alternator, which could cause the vehicle to stall.
• NHTSA Recall 15V-467: Pertains to overly sensitive side impact sensors that could cause airbags to deploy unexpectedly when a door is slammed.
• NHTSA Recall 16V-240: Relates to the body-side sill potentially giving way when using the supplied tire jack without chocking the wheels.

The most significant 'known issue' for the hood system is the previously mentioned failure of the hood latch sensor, which disables the remote start feature.

Cost of a 2011-2014 Dodge Charger Hood

Prices can vary significantly based on material, style, and condition. All replacement hoods, new or used, will require painting, which adds a substantial cost.

Hood Replacement Overview

• Difficulty: 2 out of 5. The process is straightforward but requires a helper.
• Time: 1-2 hours (not including painting).
• DIY Feasible: Yes, for those comfortable with basic tools.

Replacing the hood is a two-person job to prevent scratching the fenders or damaging the windshield. The basic steps involve propping the hood open, disconnecting the windshield washer fluid hose, and having a helper support one side while you unbolt the hinges. It's wise to scribe or mark the hinge position on the old hood before removal to make aligning the new one easier. Once the new hood is bolted on, it will need to be aligned by adjusting the hinges and rubber bump stops for even gaps all around before it is fully tightened.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)