1993-1997 Ford Probe Decklid Stop Lamp: Solving Failures and Compatibility

Compatibility Warning: Decklid Mount vs. Spoiler Mount

Symptoms of Failure

Failure of the high-mounted stop lamp is usually straightforward and easy to spot. Here are the most common symptoms:

• Light Does Not Turn On: This is the most common failure. When the brake pedal is pressed, the light remains off while the two main brake lights work normally. This is almost always caused by a burnt-out bulb.
• Flickering or Intermittent Light: The light may flicker or work only some of the time. This often points to a loose bulb in the socket, a corroded electrical connector, or a failing bulb filament.
• Dim Light: If the light appears significantly dimmer than it used to, it could be due to an aging bulb, corrosion in the socket causing high resistance, or a poor ground connection.
• Water Inside the Housing: Finding moisture or condensation inside the lens is a clear sign that the foam gasket has failed. This can lead to chronic bulb failure, socket corrosion, and potential water leaks into the trunk area.
• Cracked or Faded Lens: After decades of sun exposure, the plastic housing can become brittle, cracked, or faded. This not only looks bad but can allow water to enter and may not project light effectively.

Buying a Used 1993-1997 Probe High-Mount Stop Lamp

Since Ford has discontinued this part, a quality used OEM lamp is the most practical replacement option. Aftermarket versions are not commonly available for this specific decklid-mounted part. Here’s what to inspect before buying:

Physical Inspection Checklist:

• Lens Condition: Look for a clear, unfaded red lens. Avoid units with significant hazing, sun-fading, or deep scratches.
• Housing Integrity: Carefully check the entire plastic housing for cracks, especially around the mounting studs. The plastic can become brittle with age, and cracks here are a major red flag.
• Mounting Studs: Ensure the threaded mounting studs on the back of the lamp are intact and not broken off.
• Gasket Condition: Inspect the foam gasket around the edge of the lamp. A dry, compressed, or crumbling gasket will not seal properly and should be replaced to prevent water leaks. It's often best to plan on creating a new seal with butyl tape or weatherstripping foam regardless.
• Electrical Connector: Look at the electrical connector and pins. They should be clean and free of any green or white corrosion.
• Bulb and Socket: While the bulb is a simple replacement, check the socket for any signs of melting, rust, or corrosion, which could indicate long-term water damage.

Step-by-Step Diagnosis

If your third brake light isn't working, follow these steps to find the cause:

1. Check the Bulb: This is the most likely culprit. Access the bulb from inside the trunk, twist the socket to remove it from the lamp housing, and inspect the bulb's filament. If it's broken or the glass is dark, replace it.
2. Check the Fuse: If a new bulb doesn't work, check the fuse for the brake light circuit. If the main brake lights work but the third brake light doesn't, it's less likely to be a fuse, as they are often on the same circuit. However, it's a quick and easy check.
3. Test the Socket for Power: Use a multimeter or a 12V test light. Have a helper press the brake pedal while you touch the test probes to the metal contacts inside the electrical connector. If you get a 12V reading, the vehicle's wiring is good, and the problem is within the lamp assembly itself (likely the socket or bulb connection).
4. Inspect the Wiring: If you don't get power at the connector, inspect the wiring leading to the light, especially where it passes from the car's body into the trunk lid. Wires in this area can break from repeated opening and closing of the trunk.

Replacement Guide

Replacing the high-mounted stop lamp is a very simple DIY task.

• Difficulty: 1 out of 5
• Time: 15-20 minutes
• Tools Needed: Basic socket set

Steps:

1. Open the trunk and locate the nuts securing the lamp assembly from the inside.
2. Unplug the electrical connector from the lamp.
3. Remove the nuts using a socket and wrench.
4. Carefully pull the old lamp assembly away from the decklid.
5. Clean the mounting surface on the decklid thoroughly to ensure a good seal.
6. Install a new gasket on the replacement lamp or use butyl tape for a waterproof seal.
7. Position the new lamp, guide the studs through the holes, and tighten the nuts from inside the trunk. Do not overtighten, as this can crack the plastic housing.
8. Plug in the electrical connector and test the brake light before closing the trunk.

Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs

Recalls & TSBs: There are no specific recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) from Ford for the high-mounted stop lamp on the 1993-1997 Probe. While other Ford models have had TSBs for leaking third brake lights, none were issued for the Probe.

Common Forum-Reported Issues:

• Water Leaks: The most common complaint from owners is the failure of the original foam gasket, leading to water entering the trunk. This is a frequent issue on many vehicles of this era.
• Brittle Plastic: After 25+ years, the plastic housing becomes brittle and can easily crack, especially during removal or installation if not handled carefully.

Cost Comparison

Technical Specifications

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)