1997-2002 Ford Expedition High Mount Stop Lamp: Fixing Leaks & Lights
A complete guide to diagnosing a bad third brake light, replacing the assembly, and permanently fixing the common water leak issue on your Ford Expedition.
- The most common problem with this part is water leakage caused by a failed foam gasket, which can damage the interior headliner.
- Always replace the gasket when installing a new or used lamp to prevent future leaks; this is more critical than replacing the lamp itself.
- This part fits all 1997-2002 Ford Expeditions with a liftgate.
- Replacement is a very simple DIY job requiring only a screwdriver and about 20 minutes.
Symptoms of Failure

Diagnosing a faulty high mount stop lamp on a 1997-2002 Expedition is usually straightforward. The issues typically fall into three categories: the light itself, the seal, or related electrical components.
1. Light Does Not Work
This is the most common symptom. When you press the brake pedal, the main brake lights will work, but the high mounted lamp remains off. The cause is almost always a burnt-out bulb. Since the housing contains three bulbs, it's possible for one or two to burn out before you notice a complete failure. Less commonly, corroded bulb sockets from water intrusion or a damaged wiring connector can also cause the light to fail.
2. Water Inside the Lamp Housing or Leaking Into the Cabin
If you notice condensation inside the red lens or find water stains on your interior headliner near the rear liftgate, the lamp's foam gasket has failed. This is an extremely common issue on these vehicles. The original foam gasket becomes brittle and compressed over time, losing its ability to seal against the vehicle body. This allows rainwater to seep past the seal, either collecting in the lens or running down into the headliner and cabin.
3. Flickering or Dim Light
A flickering or dim light often points to a failing bulb that is about to burn out completely. It can also indicate a poor connection at the bulb socket, often due to minor corrosion, or a problem with the vehicle's main brake light switch. If all your brake lights (not just the high-mounted one) are acting erratically, the brake light switch located at the top of the brake pedal arm may be the culprit.
Known Issues, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)

While the lamp itself is simple, it's connected to systems that have been subject to recalls and service bulletins.
Recall 05S28 / NHTSA 05V-388: Speed Control Deactivation Switch Fire Risk
This is a significant safety recall affecting 1997-2002 Expeditions. The brake pressure switch for the cruise control system, located on the brake master cylinder under the hood, could leak brake fluid. This fluid could corrode the switch's electrical components, leading to a risk of overheating and fire, even when the vehicle is parked and turned off. A faulty switch could also cause the brake lights to stay on or not work at all. Ford's remedy was to install a fused wiring harness to prevent this issue. Verify if this recall has been performed on your vehicle.
TSB BC9673961001: High Mount Stop Light Stays On
An early Technical Service Bulletin was issued for conditions where the high mount stop light would remain illuminated. This is typically caused by a misadjusted or faulty brake light switch, which fails to open the circuit when the brake pedal is released.
Warning: The most common and damaging issue for this part is water leakage from a failed gasket. If left unaddressed, it can lead to stained or ruined headliners, mold growth, and electrical problems from corroded sockets and wiring.
Buying a Used High Mtd Stop Lamp

A used OEM lamp is often a better choice than a cheap aftermarket alternative, as many aftermarket units use poor-quality gaskets that can leak from day one. When inspecting a used OEM lamp, here’s what to check:
- Check for Cracks: Carefully inspect the red lens and the black plastic housing for any cracks or signs of damage. Pay close attention to the screw mounting holes, as overtightening can cause them to crack.
- Examine the Lens Clarity: Look for heavy fading, haziness, or yellowing from UV sun exposure. A clear, vibrant red lens is safer and looks better.
- Ignore the Old Gasket: Assume the foam gasket on any used part is bad. It will be compressed and brittle. Plan to replace it. You can buy a new, thicker aftermarket gasket or create your own from weatherstripping.
- Inspect the Bulb Sockets: Twist out the bulb sockets and look inside. Check for any green or white crusty corrosion, or signs of rust from water damage. Clean contacts are essential for reliable operation.
- Verify Part Numbers: Ensure the part is a genuine Ford component. Look for OEM numbers like F75Z-13A613-AE.
Pro Tip: Regardless of whether you buy a new or used lamp, always install it with a brand-new, high-quality gasket. For extra protection against leaks, you can apply a thin bead of clear silicone sealant around the top and sides of the gasket during installation, leaving the bottom open to allow any moisture to escape.
Cost Comparison
The cost to fix a faulty high mount stop lamp can vary significantly depending on the solution you choose.
| Part Type | Estimated Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| New OEM Assembly | $100 - $150+ | May be discontinued or difficult to find. Price reflects what it would likely cost if available from a dealer. |
| New Aftermarket Assembly | $45 - $85 | Widely available from brands like Dorman. Quality can be inconsistent, and the included gasket is often a weak point. |
| Used OEM Assembly | $35 - $75 | A good value, but requires careful inspection and a new gasket. |
| New Gasket Only | $10 - $20 | The most cost-effective solution if your lamp housing is still in good condition but leaking. |
| Replacement Bulbs (Incandescent) | $5 - $10 (for a pack) | The standard bulb is a 912. |
| Shop Labor | $50 - $100 | Typically 0.5 hours of labor. However, this is a very easy DIY repair. |
Replacement Guide (DIY)
Replacing the high mount stop lamp on a 1997-2002 Expedition is one of the easiest repairs you can do. No interior panel removal is required.
- Difficulty: 1/5 (Beginner)
- Time: 15-20 minutes
- Tools Needed: Phillips head screwdriver (Some models may use a T20 Torx driver)
Step-by-Step Instructions:
- Open the rear liftgate to get a comfortable working angle.
- Locate the screws on the exterior face of the lamp assembly. There are typically four Phillips head screws.
- Carefully remove the screws and set them aside.
- Gently pull the lamp assembly away from the liftgate. It may be slightly stuck due to the old gasket.
- With the lamp free, twist each of the three bulb sockets about a quarter-turn counter-clockwise and pull them out of the housing.
- To replace bulbs, simply pull the old bulb straight out of the socket and push the new one in. The correct bulb type is 912.
- Thoroughly clean the mounting surface on the liftgate, removing all residue from the old gasket.
- Place a new gasket on your replacement lamp assembly.
- Insert the three bulb sockets into the new lamp and twist clockwise to lock them in place.
- Position the lamp on the liftgate and reinstall the mounting screws. Tighten them evenly until snug, but do not overtighten, as this can crack the plastic housing.
- Have a helper press the brake pedal to confirm all three bulbs light up correctly.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is it illegal to drive without a working third brake light?
Yes. The center high mount stop lamp is a federally mandated safety device in the United States. Driving with one that is not functional can get you a traffic ticket and is a safety hazard, as it reduces the visibility of your braking actions to other drivers.
My light is out. Do I need to replace the whole assembly?
Not usually. In most cases, the problem is just a burnt-out 912 incandescent bulb. You can access and replace the bulbs in minutes without replacing the entire housing. You should only replace the full assembly if the lens is cracked, the housing is damaged, or the internal bulb sockets are severely corroded from water damage.
How can I permanently fix the water leak?
The best way is to replace the thin factory foam gasket with a new, thicker, higher-quality aftermarket seal. When installing, ensure the mounting surface on the vehicle is perfectly clean. For maximum protection, apply a bead of RTV silicone or a similar waterproof sealant to the top and sides of the gasket before tightening it down. Leave the bottom edge unsealed to provide a path for any potential moisture to drain out instead of being trapped.
Can I upgrade the bulbs to LEDs?
Yes, many owners upgrade the 912 incandescent bulbs to red LED equivalents for a brighter, more modern look and longer lifespan. When doing so, it is recommended to use red LEDs behind the red lens for the best light output. White LEDs can appear washed-out or pinkish behind a red lens.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: F75Z-13A613-AE F75Z13A613AE XL1Z-13A613-CA XL1Z13A613CA
Bulb Type: 912 Incandescent (x3)
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
- Ford Expedition:
- Symptoms of Failure
- 1. Light Does Not Work
- 2. Water Inside the Lamp Housing or Leaking Into the Cabin
- 3. Flickering or Dim Light
- Known Issues, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)
- Recall 05S28 / NHTSA 05V-388: Speed Control Deactivation Switch Fire Risk
- TSB BC9673961001: High Mount Stop Light Stays On
- Buying a Used High Mtd Stop Lamp
- Cost Comparison
- Replacement Guide (DIY)
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- 🎟️ Get 5% Off