1999-2001 Galant, Eclipse, Sebring & Stratus Fuel Pump Guide: Stalling, Hard Starts & Engine Fitment
This guide covers the common failure symptoms and critical compatibility details for the fuel pump assembly in the Mitsubishi Galant, Eclipse, and the Dodge Stratus / Chrysler Sebring coupes.
- Crucially, you must match the pump to your engine: there are different parts for the 2.4L I4 and 3.0L V6.
- For the Chrysler Sebring and Dodge Stratus, this part ONLY fits 2-door Coupe models, not sedans or convertibles.
- Common failure symptoms include engine sputtering, difficulty starting, and a loud whining noise from the rear seat area.
- Accessing the pump is done from inside the car by removing the rear seat cushion, making it a feasible DIY job.
Vehicle Fitment & Critical Compatibility Warnings
Warning: This fuel pump assembly has very specific fitment requirements. Ordering the wrong part is a common mistake. Pay close attention to your vehicle's model, body style, and engine size.
- Chrysler Sebring & Dodge Stratus: This part ONLY fits 2-door Coupe models from 2001. It will NOT fit 4-door Sedans or Convertibles, which use a completely different fuel pump.
- Engine Size is Critical: These vehicles were available with two different engines, a 2.4L 4-cylinder and a 3.0L V6. They use different fuel pump assemblies. You MUST match the pump to your engine.
Part Numbers by Engine
Before purchasing, verify the part number from your old unit or confirm with the seller that the part is correct for your engine. The two versions are not interchangeable.
| Engine | OEM Part Numbers | Common Applications |
|---|---|---|
| 2.4L I4 (4-Cylinder) | MR508282, MR465687 | 1999-2001 Galant, 2000-2001 Eclipse, 2001 Sebring/Stratus Coupe |
| 3.0L V6 | MR508283, MR465688 | 1999-2001 Galant, 2000-2001 Eclipse, 2001 Sebring/Stratus Coupe |
Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump
A weak or failing fuel pump can cause a variety of frustrating engine performance issues. Here are the most common signs to watch for:
- Engine Sputtering or Hesitation: The car may jerk or sputter when you accelerate, especially at highway speeds or when going uphill. This happens because the weak pump can't supply the extra fuel the engine demands under load.
- Difficulty Starting: You may experience long crank times (the engine turns over for several seconds before starting) or a complete crank-no-start condition. This indicates the pump isn't building enough pressure to start the engine.
- Whining Noise from the Rear Seat Area: A failing fuel pump motor often makes a loud, high-pitched whining or humming sound that can be heard from inside the car. A healthy pump makes a quiet hum for a few seconds when you first turn the key, but a continuous, loud whine is a sign of failure.
- Engine Stalling: The engine may stall unexpectedly, sometimes after it has warmed up. This can be dangerous if it happens while driving.
- Sudden Loss of Power: The vehicle may feel sluggish and unable to accelerate properly.
- Vehicle Surging: The car might suddenly jerk or accelerate on its own without you pressing the gas pedal. This is caused by inconsistent fuel pressure from a faulty pump.
Diagnosing the Problem
Before condemning the fuel pump, it's wise to check a few simpler items first, as they can cause identical symptoms.
- Check the Fuel Pump Fuse and Relay: A blown fuse or a bad relay will prevent the fuel pump from getting power. This is a cheap and easy fix that should always be your first step. The relay is often located in the under-hood fuse box.
- Listen for the Pump: Have a friend turn the ignition key to the 'ON' position (without starting the engine) while you listen near the fuel tank cap or with the rear seat cushion removed. You should hear a distinct 2-second hum as the pump primes the system. If you hear nothing, the pump is likely not getting power or has failed completely.
- Fuel Pressure Test: The most definitive test is to measure the fuel pressure at the engine's fuel rail. This requires a fuel pressure gauge. Low or zero pressure confirms a fuel delivery problem, pointing towards the pump or a severely clogged filter.
Buying a Used OEM Fuel Pump: A Smart Choice
Given the high cost of a new OEM fuel pump assembly, a quality used OEM unit from a reputable recycler is an excellent value. Original Mitsubishi/Denso parts are known for their durability, often outlasting cheap aftermarket alternatives that can fail prematurely or cause inaccurate fuel gauge readings.
What to Inspect on a Used Pump:
- Check the Mileage: Ask the seller for the mileage of the vehicle the part came from. A pump from a vehicle with under 125,000 miles is generally a safe bet.
- Inspect the Electrical Connector: Look closely at the electrical pins on top of the assembly. They should be clean and shiny. Avoid any unit with burnt, melted, or heavily corroded pins, as this indicates high electrical resistance and a likely impending failure.
- Examine the Plastic Housing: Check the white plastic top and body of the assembly for any cracks, especially around the fuel line nipples. A cracked housing can cause dangerous fuel leaks.
- Verify the Part Number: Most importantly, confirm the part is correct for your 2.4L or 3.0L engine. If the part number isn't visible, ensure the donor vehicle had the same engine as yours.
Replacement Overview & Difficulty
- Difficulty Rating: 3/5 (Moderate)
- Estimated Time: 1.5 - 2.5 hours
- DIY Feasible: Yes, for those comfortable with basic tools and safety precautions.
The fuel pump is accessed from inside the vehicle by removing the lower rear seat cushion. A metal access panel is underneath, which must be unbolted to reveal the top of the fuel tank and pump assembly.
Pro Tip: It's much safer and cleaner to perform this job when the fuel tank is as empty as possible. Also, be sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting to prevent any sparks.
The basic steps involve relieving fuel system pressure, disconnecting the fuel lines and electrical connector, and then removing the large metal lock ring that holds the pump in place. This ring can be tight, and a brass punch and hammer are often used to tap it counter-clockwise to loosen it. Once the ring is off, the assembly can be carefully lifted out of the tank. Installation is the reverse of removal, paying close attention to seating the new gasket correctly to prevent fuel leaks and fumes.
Cost Comparison
Prices can vary, but here is a general breakdown of what to expect:
| Part Type | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New OEM (Dealer) | $430 - $610 |
| New Aftermarket | $100 - $220 |
| Used OEM | $50 - $150 |
| Shop Labor | $150 - $250 |
Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs
As of this writing, there are no widespread recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) from Mitsubishi or Chrysler specifically for fuel pump failure on these models. The failures are generally age and mileage-related. However, failure of the fuel pump relay is a known issue that can mimic a dead pump.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Where is the fuel pump located?
The fuel pump assembly is located inside the fuel tank. You can access it by removing the rear seat bottom cushion and then unbolting a metal service cover on the floor pan.
Can I replace just the pump motor instead of the whole assembly?
While it is possible to buy just the internal pump motor, it is not recommended for most DIY mechanics. Replacing the motor requires disassembling the plastic module, which can be brittle. A complete used or new assembly is a much more reliable and straightforward repair that also replaces the fuel level sender and strainer.
Will a pump from a Galant fit an Eclipse or Sebring Coupe?
Yes, as long as the engine size is the same. A pump from a 2.4L Galant will fit a 2.4L Eclipse or 2.4L Sebring/Stratus Coupe from the specified year ranges. The same is true for the 3.0L V6 models.
Do I need to replace the fuel filter at the same time?
The fuel pump assembly contains an integrated strainer (sock filter). However, some vehicles may also have a separate, in-line fuel filter. If your vehicle has one, it is always a good idea to replace it when you replace the fuel pump to ensure the new pump isn't strained by a clogged filter.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: MR508282 (For 2.4L I4) MR465687 (For 2.4L I4) MR508283 (For 3.0L V6) MR465688 (For 3.0L V6)
In-tank fuel pump module assembly. Includes pump, fuel level sending unit, and strainer. Operates on 12V system.
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
- Chrysler Sebring:
- Dodge Stratus:
- Mitsubishi Eclipse:
- Mitsubishi Galant:
- 🛍️ Shop This Part
- Vehicle Fitment & Critical Compatibility Warnings
- Part Numbers by Engine
- Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump
- Diagnosing the Problem
- Buying a Used OEM Fuel Pump: A Smart Choice
- What to Inspect on a Used Pump:
- Replacement Overview & Difficulty
- Cost Comparison
- Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
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