1991-1994 Explorer & Navajo Fender: Decoding 2-Door vs. 4-Door and Part Number Changes

Key Compatibility Warnings (1991-1994)

Before purchasing a fender for a 1991-1994 Ford Explorer or Mazda Navajo, you must verify three key details. Failure to do so will likely result in a part that does not fit.

1. 2-Door vs. 4-Door Models

Fenders for 2-door and 4-door models are different and are not interchangeable. The shape and mounting points near the front of the door and rocker panel area vary between the two body styles.

• 1991-1994 Ford Explorer 2-Door: Requires a specific 2-door fender.
• 1991-1994 Ford Explorer 4-Door: Requires a specific 4-door fender.
• 1991-1994 Mazda Navajo: The Navajo was only produced as a 2-door model. It uses the same fender as the 2-door Ford Explorer.

2. Year Group Differences (1991-92 vs. 1993-94)

Ford updated the part numbers mid-generation, creating two distinct groups. While the overall shape is similar, there may be subtle differences in mounting holes for trim or accessories.

• 1991-1992 Models: Use part numbers starting with F1TZ.
• 1993-1994 Models: Use part numbers starting with F3TZ.

Always try to match your purchase to the correct year group of your vehicle to ensure the best fit.

3. Trim Level and Fender Flares

Different trim levels (like XL, XLT, Eddie Bauer) came with different side moldings or fender flares. These accessories require specific mounting holes in the fender. When buying a used fender, inspect it to ensure the hole pattern matches your vehicle's trim or that it has no holes if your model doesn't use them. A fender from an Eddie Bauer, for example, may have holes that a base model XL fender does not.

Symptoms of a Damaged Fender

Fender failure is always visual and related to damage, not mechanical breakdown. Common symptoms include:

• Rust and Corrosion: This is the most common issue on older vehicles. Look for bubbling paint, discoloration (orange or brown spots), and holes, especially around the wheel well lip and the bottom edge near the door. First-generation Explorers are known to rust in these areas.
• Dents and Dings: Caused by impacts from shopping carts, road debris, or minor collisions. Large or creased dents can be difficult to repair and may indicate hidden structural damage.
• Misalignment: Uneven gaps between the fender and the hood, door, or bumper are a sign of a bent fender or frame damage from a previous accident. This can cause wind noise or interfere with the door opening and closing.
• Paint Failure: Fading, peeling clear coat, or deep scratches that expose the metal underneath. An exposed scratch will quickly lead to rust.

Buying a Used OEM Fender: What to Inspect

A used original equipment (OEM) fender is often a better choice than a new, cheap aftermarket part because the factory-grade steel and stamping ensure a proper fit. Aftermarket panels are notorious for poor alignment, leading to uneven panel gaps and installation headaches. Here’s what to check before you buy:

1. Check for Hidden Repairs: Bring a small magnet. Run it along the entire surface of the fender, especially around the wheel arch and lower edges. If the magnet doesn't stick, it indicates the presence of plastic body filler (Bondo) from a previous repair. Avoid these parts.
2. Verify All Mounting Points: Carefully inspect every mounting hole and tab—along the top where it bolts to the engine bay, at the front near the headlight, at the rear by the door hinge, and at the bottom by the rocker panel. Ensure none are broken, cracked, or rusted out.
3. Confirm Body Style and Year: Double-check that the fender came from a vehicle with the same body style (2-door or 4-door) and ideally the same year range (91-92 or 93-94) as yours.
4. Match Trim Holes: Look for holes for side molding or fender flares. Make sure they match what your vehicle requires. Drilling new holes can be difficult, and filling unwanted ones adds cost and complexity to the paint job.
5. Inspect for Rust Thoroughly: Check for any signs of rust, both on the painted surface and, more importantly, on the unpainted inner side. A little surface rust can be treated, but flaking or perforated metal means the fender's life is limited.

Known Issues, Recalls, and Service Bulletins

There are no recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) from the NHTSA specifically related to the fenders on the 1991-1994 Ford Explorer or Mazda Navajo. However, these vehicles were subject to several important safety recalls for other issues, including:

• NHTSA Campaign ID 96V024001: Risk of fractured master cylinder mounting studs, which could lead to brake failure.
• NHTSA Recall 94V169002: Potential for liftgate support brackets to fracture, causing the liftgate to fall unexpectedly.
• Sunroof Separation: On models with a factory sunroof, the glass panel could separate from the vehicle while in motion.

Cost of Replacement (1991-1994)

Costs can vary based on part condition, source, and labor rates. Painting is a significant additional cost, often ranging from $300 to $600+ to properly prep, paint, and blend the new panel to match the rest of the vehicle.

Replacement Overview

Replacing the fender is a straightforward job for a DIY mechanic with basic tools. The main challenge is aligning the new panel to achieve even gaps with the hood and door.

General Steps:

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove any components attached to the fender, such as the antenna, side marker light, and any trim or flares.
3. Remove the headlight assembly and corner light to access bolts at the front.
4. Open the door to access the bolt(s) attaching the rear of the fender to the A-pillar.
5. Remove the bolts along the top of the fender inside the engine bay.
6. Remove the bolts at the bottom of the fender attaching it to the rocker panel/support.
7. Carefully remove the fender from the vehicle.
8. Test-fit the replacement fender. Loosely install all bolts and adjust the panel until the gaps with the door and hood are even.
9. Once aligned, tighten all bolts to spec. The torque spec for most fender bolts is around 10-14 Nm (8-10 lb-ft).
10. Reinstall all other components.

OEM Part Number Reference

Part numbers ending in 5 are typically for the passenger (RH) side, while those ending in 6 are for the driver (LH) side. The prefix indicates the year and vehicle line.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)