Audi 2.0T Intake Manifold (2014-2017 A4, A5, Q5, allroad): Fixing the P2015 Fault Code

Common Failure: P2015 Fault Code and the Runner Flap System

The most widespread issue with the intake manifold on the 2014-2016 Audi A4, 2015-2016 Audi allroad, 2015-2017 Audi A5, and 2015-2017 Audi Q5 with the 2.0L Turbo engine is a failure related to the intake runner flap system. This almost always results in a Check Engine Light with the diagnostic trouble code P2015 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance.

This fault occurs when the actuator motor that controls the runner flaps moves too far. The manifold has a small plastic stop that is supposed to limit the actuator's range of motion. Over time, this plastic stop wears down or breaks. When this happens, the actuator arm over-travels, and the position sensor sends a reading to the engine computer (ECU) that is outside of the expected range, triggering the P2015 code.

Symptoms of a Failing Intake Manifold

A failing intake manifold can present several symptoms, most of which are tied to the P2015 fault or vacuum leaks.

• Check Engine Light: This is the most common symptom. The primary code is P2015, but you may also see related codes like P2004, P2006, or general misfire codes (P0300-P0304).
• Rough Idle: The engine may shake, stutter, or have an unstable RPM at idle due to an incorrect air-fuel mixture.
• Reduced Engine Performance: You may notice sluggish acceleration, a loss of power, or a decrease in turbo boost pressure. This happens because the runner flaps are not in the optimal position for the engine's speed.
• Poor Fuel Economy: An inefficient air-fuel mixture will cause the engine to use more gasoline than usual.
• Hissing or Whistling Noises: A sucking or whistling sound from the engine bay, especially when accelerating, can indicate a vacuum leak from a cracked manifold or a bad gasket.

Diagnosing the Issue

1. Scan for Codes: The first step is always to use an OBD2 scanner to read the diagnostic trouble codes. A P2015 code is a strong indicator of this specific issue.
2. Visual Inspection: With the engine off, locate the intake manifold actuator motor on the side of the manifold. You can often see the black plastic linkage arm. Have a helper turn the ignition on (without starting the engine); the actuator should cycle. Watch the linkage arm for excessive movement. 🎬 Watch: How to inspect the runner linkage for excessive play. If it appears to move too far or seems loose, the internal stop has likely failed.
3. Check for Vacuum Leaks: With the engine running, listen for hissing sounds around the manifold. You can carefully spray short bursts of brake cleaner or a propane torch (unlit) around the gasket areas. If the engine RPM changes, you have found a leak.

Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls

While there isn't a specific NHTSA recall for the intake manifold on these Audi models, the issue is well-documented across the Volkswagen/Audi platform. Volkswagen issued a limited warranty extension for the intake manifold on some models with the same engine family to 10 years or 120,000 miles, highlighting the frequency of the failure. While this specific warranty may not apply to your Audi, it confirms the part's known weakness.

It is important to distinguish this issue from other recalls. For example, many of these same vehicles were recalled for a faulty electric after-run coolant pump (NHTSA 18V229), which can be a fire risk but is unrelated to the intake manifold's function.

Buying a Used Engine Intake Manifold

A used OEM manifold can be a cost-effective solution, especially since new aftermarket parts can be of questionable quality and new OEM parts are expensive. Here’s what to check before buying:

• Check for Cracks: Carefully inspect the entire plastic and aluminum housing, especially around the mounting points and seams. Any visible cracks mean the part is junk.
• Test the Runner Flaps: Look inside the runner ports and find the flap linkage. Try to move it by hand. It should move smoothly without binding or sticking. If the flaps are seized, the manifold is not usable.
• Inspect the Actuator Linkage: Check the small plastic ball and socket joints on the actuator arm for excessive play or damage.
• Verify Compatibility: This is critical. Ensure the part comes from a vehicle with a 2.0L Turbo engine and matches the engine codes CPM, CPMA, or CPMB. The part numbers 06H133201AR, 06H133201S, or 06K133062 should be visible. Do not use a manifold from a Q5 Hybrid.
• Don't Worry About the P2015 Stop: Even if the seller can't guarantee the internal actuator stop is perfect, a used manifold can still be a good buy if it's otherwise in good condition. You can proactively install a P2015 repair bracket on the used manifold before installation to ensure longevity.

Replacement Difficulty and Procedure

Replacing the intake manifold is a moderately difficult job that requires patience and the right tools. It involves the fuel system, so proper precautions must be taken.

• Difficulty Rating: 3.5 out of 5
• Estimated Time: 3-5 hours for a DIY mechanic

General Steps:

1. Disconnect the battery and relieve fuel system pressure.
2. Remove the engine cover and disconnect various electrical connectors and vacuum hoses attached to the manifold.
3. Disconnect the high-pressure fuel line from the fuel rail. Use caution as fuel will spill.
4. Unbolt and carefully lift the fuel rail with the injectors attached. It's highly recommended to replace the fuel injector seals and O-rings at this time.
🎬 Watch this walkthrough for removing the manifold and fuel injectors.
5. Unbolt the intake manifold from the cylinder head and remove it from the vehicle.
6. Carbon Cleaning: With the manifold off, you will have direct access to the intake ports on the cylinder head. These direct-injection engines are notorious for carbon buildup on the intake valves, which causes misfires and poor performance. It is strongly recommended to perform a carbon cleaning service at this time.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Use a new intake manifold gasket and torque all bolts to factory specifications.

Cost Comparison

Prices can vary based on location and supplier. Labor costs for professional installation typically range from $300 to $600, often including carbon cleaning.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)