2013 Charger & 300 Engine Control Module (ECM): Failure Symptoms and VIN Programming Guide

Symptoms of a Failing ECM

A failing Engine Control Module in a 2013 Dodge Charger or Chrysler 300 can cause a wide range of confusing and intermittent problems. Because the ECM controls so many functions, its failure can mimic other issues. Here are the most common signs to watch for:

• Check Engine Light: This is often the first and most obvious sign. The light may be steady or flashing. A flashing light indicates a severe misfire that could damage the catalytic converter.
• Engine Stalling or Misfiring: The engine may stall unexpectedly while driving or at idle. You might also experience a rough idle, stuttering, or hesitation during acceleration.
• No-Start Condition: The engine may crank but refuse to start. This can happen if the ECM is not sending the proper signals to the fuel pump or ignition system. In some cases, the starter may not engage at all.
🎬 Check this video to find and replace the ECM fuse.
• Poor Performance and Fuel Economy: A noticeable drop in gas mileage or a feeling that the car is sluggish and lacks power can be caused by an ECM that is not correctly managing the engine's fuel and timing.
• Erratic Shifting: The ECM works with the Transmission Control Module (TCM) to ensure smooth gear changes. A faulty ECM can send incorrect data, leading to harsh, delayed, or unpredictable shifting.
• Multiple Unrelated DTCs: A failing ECM can sometimes generate a flood of seemingly unrelated Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) for various sensors and systems. If you scan your vehicle and see codes for multiple different sensors, it could point to the central computer itself being the problem.

Common Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)

While many codes can indicate an ECM issue, codes in the P0600-P06FF range are specifically for computer and output circuit failures. Some common ones include:

• P0601: Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error
• P0606: ECM/PCM Processor Fault
• P1388 / P1389: Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay Control Circuit issues
• P0300-P0308: Misfire codes for random or specific cylinders, which can be a symptom of incorrect ECM control.
• U0140: Lost Communication With Body Control Module.

Known Issues, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)

While there are no recalls specifically for ECM failure on the 2013 Charger and 300, several service campaigns involve reprogramming the module.

• NHTSA Recall 16V240000 (FCA Campaign S27): This recall addresses an issue with the electronic gear shifter that could allow the vehicle to roll away. The fix involves reprogramming the PCM and other modules to add an 'Auto Park' feature. This applies to 2012-2014 models.
• NHTSA Recall 18V-332 (FCA Campaign U60): This recall was for a cruise control fault that could prevent the driver from deactivating it. The remedy is a PCM software update. This campaign primarily targeted 2014-2018 models but could include some late-production 2013 vehicles.
• TSB 18-089-15: This Technical Service Bulletin was issued to address MIL illumination with codes like U0140 (Lost Communication With Body Control Module) and P0456 (EVAP Leak) on 5.7L models. The fix is to reprogram the PCM with updated software.
• TSB 18-073-20: This TSB involves a PCM software update to address various MIL illumination causes.

These bulletins highlight the importance of software. Sometimes, erratic behavior is not due to a failed ECM but rather outdated software that can be updated by a dealer.

Buying a Used Engine Control Module (ECM)

Purchasing a used OEM ECM is a cost-effective alternative to a new unit from the dealership, but it requires careful attention to detail. This is not a simple plug-and-play part.

Key Considerations:

• Part Number Matching: The part number on the replacement ECM should match your original module exactly. While some part numbers are interchangeable, matching them is the safest way to ensure compatibility. Many sellers note that the final two letters of the part number can often differ as they indicate software revisions.
• Pre-Programmed vs. Raw Used:
  • Pre-Programmed ('Plug & Play'): Many online retailers sell used or remanufactured ECMs that are pre-programmed with your car's VIN before they are shipped. This is the most straightforward option for DIY installation, as it bypasses the need for a dealer visit. You will need to provide your VIN when ordering.
  • Raw Used (from a salvage yard): A basic used ECM from a junkyard is the cheapest initial option ($50-$150) but will require professional programming at a dealership or a specialized independent shop, which can cost $150-$300 or more.
• Physical Inspection: When you receive the part, inspect it for any signs of damage. Check for corrosion on the housing, bent or corroded connector pins, and any evidence that the case has been opened, which could indicate a failed repair attempt.
• Cloning Services: Some companies offer a service where they clone the data from your original ECM to the replacement unit. This is an excellent option if your original module is still able to communicate, as it transfers all data, including the VIN and anti-theft information, creating an exact copy.

Replacement and Programming Guide

Physical Installation (DIY Feasible)

The physical replacement of the ECM is relatively simple and can be done with basic hand tools.

1. Disconnect the Battery: The battery on these vehicles is in the trunk. Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent electrical damage.
2. Locate the ECM: The ECM is located in the engine bay, under the plastic cowl cover on the passenger side, near the base of the windshield.
3. Access the ECM: Remove the plastic push pins holding the cowl cover in place and lift the cover to expose the module.
4. Disconnect the Connectors: There are two large electrical connectors attached to the ECM. Push the release button on each connector and lift the locking lever to unplug them.
5. Unbolt the Module: The ECM is typically held in a bracket. Remove the bolts (usually 10mm or 13mm) securing the module and/or its bracket to the vehicle's body.
6. Install the New Module: Installation is the reverse of removal. Secure the new ECM, plug in the connectors, replace the cowl cover, and reconnect the battery.
🎬 Watch this step-by-step guide on removing the PCM.

Programming (Professional Required)

If you install a non-programmed ECM, the vehicle will not start. You have two main options for programming:

1. Dealership: A Chrysler, Dodge, or Jeep dealer can program the new module using their proprietary wiTECH software. This is the most reliable, albeit most expensive, option.
2. Specialized Independent Shop/Locksmith: Some high-end independent shops or automotive locksmiths have advanced tools like the Autel MaxiSys IM608 that can perform VIN writing and security key adaptation. However, this is a complex procedure that requires pulling the vehicle's PIN code and is not something every shop can do.
🎬 See how a new engine computer is programmed.

Cost Comparison

The cost to replace the ECM can vary significantly based on the part source and labor for programming.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)