2016-2017 Dodge Charger & Chrysler 300 5.7L Hemi V8 (AWD): Problems, Identification, and Used Replacement

Engine Identification: Confirming You Have the AWD 5.7L Hemi

The 2016-2017 Dodge Charger and Chrysler 300 were available with a 5.7L Hemi V8 engine (engine code EZH) for both Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) and All-Wheel Drive (AWD) models. However, the engines are not interchangeable. This guide focuses specifically on the AWD version. Before purchasing a used engine, it is critical to verify you have the correct model.

Key Identifiers

• VIN Check: The 8th digit of your vehicle's Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) must be a 'T'. [2, 3]
• Drivetrain: Your vehicle must be an All-Wheel Drive (AWD) model. You can confirm this by looking for front CV axles—steel shafts that connect the front wheels to a front differential unit located near the engine.
• Starter Location: On the AWD 5.7L Hemi, the starter motor is located on the driver's side (left side) of the engine block. This is a definitive visual check.
• Oil Pan Design: The AWD model uses a specific cast aluminum oil pan that has a pass-through tunnel cast into it. This tunnel allows the front axle shaft to pass through the oil pan to the passenger-side wheel.

Common Failure Symptoms

While the 5.7L Hemi is a strong engine, certain symptoms often point toward a major internal failure that requires engine replacement rather than a simple repair.

• "Hemi Tick": A light, rhythmic ticking or tapping noise from the top of the engine, especially noticeable at idle or on a cold start. 🎬 Listen: Hear the difference between a lifter tick and exhaust leak [34] This is often the earliest sign of lifter and camshaft problems. 🎬 Watch: How to diagnose the Hemi tick yourself [19]
• Engine Misfire with Knocking: A persistent engine misfire (often triggering a P0300 trouble code) accompanied by a deeper knocking or clattering sound, especially as engine RPMs increase. [19, 39] This can indicate that a lifter has failed and is damaging the camshaft. [19]
• Rough Idle and Power Loss: The vehicle may buck, surge, or idle roughly, along with a noticeable lack of power. [1, 4]
• Metal Debris in Oil: When changing the oil, finding significant metallic shavings on the magnetic drain plug or in the used oil is a sign of catastrophic internal engine wear. [10] Technicians may also find this debris in the Oil Control Valve (OCV) screens. [1, 4]

Diagnostic Flowchart

Known Problems, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)

This specific engine family has several well-documented issues. Knowing them can help you diagnose problems or prevent them on a replacement unit.

Camshaft and Lifter Failure ("Hemi Tick")

The most notorious issue with the Gen III 5.7L Hemi is the failure of the hydraulic lifters, particularly on cylinders controlled by the Multi-Displacement System (MDS). The roller on the lifter can fail, causing it to grind against the camshaft lobe, sending metal particles throughout the engine. [19, 41] This issue is documented in FCA STAR Case Report S1709000010 Rev. B. [1, 4, 31] The recommended repair is to inspect the camshaft lobes and lifters, and replace the camshaft, all 16 lifters, and plastic lifter guides if wear is present.

Official Recalls

Key Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)

Other Common Issues

• Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts: The bolts securing the exhaust manifolds to the cylinder heads, especially on the rearmost cylinders, are known to break across all years. This causes an exhaust leak, which can create a ticking noise that is sometimes mistaken for the "Hemi tick."

What Fails at Every Mileage Band

Under 60,000 Miles

Engines in this range are generally healthy, but premature failures can still occur.

• Known Failures: Water pump failure (less common, but can occur prematurely). Broken exhaust manifold bolts, causing a cold-start tick that disappears as the engine warms. Early signs of 'Hemi Tick' (lifter/camshaft wear) can begin due to lubrication issues or manufacturing defects.
• ✓Do during install (required): Change oil and filter with 7 quarts of full synthetic 5W-20 meeting FCA Material Standard MS-6395. Use a high-quality spin-on oil filter (Mopar MO-339, MO-899, or Wix XP).
• ✓Do during install (recommended): Use a high-quality Mopar or equivalent water pump and thermostat. Replace all 16 OE-spec high-performance Iridium spark plugs (gapped to 0.039-0.043 inches) if their history is unknown.
• ✓Cheap insurance while the engine is out: Replace exhaust manifold bolts with upgraded studs as a preventative measure.

60,000-100,000 Miles

This is where common wear items begin to show their age.

• Known Failures: Water pump and thermostat failure becomes more common. The 'Hemi Tick' due to lifter and camshaft wear becomes a more significant concern, often starting as a faint tick on cold starts. Broken exhaust manifold bolts are very common. Oil filter housing leaks. Timing chain tensioner wear can cause a startup rattle.
• ✓Do during install (required): Mandatory replacement of water pump, thermostat, and associated gaskets. Flush coolant and replace with Mopar-approved OAT (Organic Additive Technology) coolant meeting MS-12106 / MS.90032 (purple color).
• ✓Do during install (recommended): Replace all 16 spark plugs and inspect ignition coils. Replace exhaust manifold bolts with upgraded studs.
• ✓Cheap insurance while the engine is out: Replace timing chain and tensioners if any startup rattle was present. Thoroughly inspect for the 'Hemi Tick'. If purchasing a used engine in this band, a pre-purchase inspection focusing on valvetrain noise is critical.

100,000-150,000 Miles

Internal wear becomes a major factor in this mileage band.

• Known Failures: Lifter and camshaft failure ('Hemi Tick') is the most significant and costly risk in this mileage range. It often progresses from a minor tick to misfires (P0300 codes). Water pump failure is highly likely if not already replaced. Broken exhaust manifold bolts are almost a certainty if not previously addressed. Timing chain wear and tensioner issues.
• ✓Do during install (required): Replace the water pump, thermostat, and all cooling system hoses. Perform a full tune-up including all 16 spark plugs, PCV valve, and cleaning the throttle body.
• ✓Do during install (recommended): Replace exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts with upgraded studs.
• ✓Cheap insurance while the engine is out: Assume lifters and camshaft need inspection at a minimum. If installing a >100k engine, replacing the camshaft, all 16 lifters, and timing set is the safest route. Consider replacing the oil pump with a high-volume unit (e.g., Hellcat oil pump) for better lubrication.

Over 150,000 Miles

Engines surviving to this point usually have a history of meticulous maintenance, but all components are heavily worn.

• Known Failures: The primary risk remains camshaft and lifter failure; engines that reach this mileage without the issue often have had meticulous oil changes. General wear on all components, including timing chains, oil pumps, and sensors. Coolant leaks from gaskets and the radiator itself.
• ✓Do during install (required): If metal shavings are found in the oil during the inspection of the old engine, a complete teardown and cleaning of the block is necessary to prevent debris from damaging the replacement unit.
• ✓Do during install (recommended): A complete refresh is strongly recommended. This includes camshaft, lifters, timing chain set, oil pump, water pump, all gaskets, seals, and sensors.
• ✓Cheap insurance while the engine is out: At this mileage, consider it a core for a potential rebuild rather than a simple plug-and-play unit.

Real Owner Experiences

The following table highlights real-world experiences from owners dealing with 5.7L Hemi engine issues across various platforms.

Repair or Replace?

Deciding whether to repair your current 5.7L Hemi or replace it entirely depends on the extent of the damage and the economics of the repair.

• When Repair Makes Sense: Repairing the top end (camshaft and lifters) makes sense only if there is no evidence of metal debris in the engine oil or on the Oil Control Valve (OCV) screen. If the failure is caught very early before significant cam lobe damage or noise, a repair can be viable. Typical repair costs for a cam and lifter job range from $2,500 to $6,000+. Broken exhaust manifold bolts are also a repairable issue ($500 - $1,500) and do not require engine replacement.
• When Replacement is Smarter: Engine replacement is the smarter and often necessary choice when there are metal shavings present in the oil, indicating widespread internal contamination and likely bottom-end damage. It is also the better economic decision when the quoted cost for a major repair approaches or exceeds the price of a replacement unit.

Replacement Cost Comparison

Engine replacement costs can vary widely based on location, the shop's labor rate, and the type of engine chosen. The following estimates are for the engine assembly itself and the labor to install it.

Questions to Ask Your Installer

• Have you specifically worked on the AWD version of the 5.7L Hemi in a Charger/300 before, and are you aware of the driver-side starter location and unique oil pan?
• What is your procedure for the mandatory Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Relearn after installation to prevent misfire codes?
• Will you be using new Torque-to-Yield (TTY) bolts for the cylinder heads and harmonic balancer as required?
• Do you inspect and recommend replacing common wear items during the swap, such as the water pump, thermostat, and especially the exhaust manifold bolts/studs?
• How do you prime the oiling system before the first start-up to ensure the new lifters and camshaft are properly lubricated?
• Can you confirm you will use 5W-20 oil meeting FCA MS-6395 and the correct purple OAT coolant (MS-12106) to prevent MDS issues and coolant gelling?

What's Included in a Used Engine Assembly?

When you buy a used engine, it's important to know what parts are typically included. The assembly is sold as a "long block" with some accessories, but not everything you need. For example, a verified donor unit might come from a 2016 Dodge Charger with approximately 97,668 miles in ARA condition grade A.

• Usually Included: Engine block and all internal parts (crank, pistons, connecting rods, etc.), cylinder heads, camshaft, lifters, valves, oil pan, valve covers, intake manifold, timing covers, fuel injectors, fuel rail, throttle body, harmonic balancer, and water pump.
• Usually NOT Included: Alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump, starter motor, exhaust manifolds, engine wiring harness, and the Engine Control Unit (ECU/PCM). [2] These parts must be transferred from your old engine or purchased separately.

Freight & Delivery Reality

Buying a used engine online means dealing with heavy freight shipping. This is not a standard parcel delivery.

• Size and Weight: A fully dressed 5.7L Hemi AWD engine assembly weighs approximately 465 lbs and measures roughly 40" x 40" x 38" before crating.
• Shipping Method: It ships as Less-Than-Truckload (LTL) freight on a wooden pallet.
• Delivery Requirements: You must have a loading dock, a forklift, or request a truck with a liftgate to lower the pallet to the ground. Residential deliveries often incur extra fees.
• Inspect Before Signing: Never sign the delivery receipt until you have fully inspected the engine for transit damage (e.g., cracked oil pan, broken sensors). Once you sign, you accept the condition.
• Pre-Purchase Verification: Industry best practice dictates a pre-purchase verification interview with the seller to confirm your VIN (8th digit 'T') and ensure you are getting the correct AWD block with the driver-side starter.

Installation Essentials and Gotchas

Professional Installation Recommended

Replacing this engine is a complex job rated for expert-level technicians. It typically requires 15 to 22 hours of labor and specialized tools.

• Special Tools Required: An engine hoist and load leveler, a Chrysler-specific harmonic balancer puller (Mopar #9026A or equivalent), a fuel line disconnect tool, a high-quality torque wrench / Torque-Angle Gauge, and a bi-directional diagnostic scan tool (such as wiTECH, Autel, Appcar DiagFCA, or HP Tuners).
• AWD System Complexity: The procedure requires dropping the front subframe and disconnecting the front differential and axles to remove the unique AWD oil pan.

Critical Installation Steps & "Gotchas"

• Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Relearn: After installation, a CKP sensor relearn procedure is mandatory. Failure to do this will cause false misfire codes (P0300) and a rough idle. This requires a compatible diagnostic scan tool. If using a donor PCM, it must be programmed to your vehicle's VIN and security key (SKIM) to prevent a no-start condition.
• Torque-to-Yield (TTY) Bolts: Critical fasteners like cylinder head bolts, connecting rod bolts, and harmonic balancer bolts are designed for one-time use. They must be replaced with new bolts and torqued to specific factory procedures. Reusing them can lead to catastrophic engine failure.
• MDS Solenoid and Lifter Pre-Lube: MDS solenoids under the intake manifold have fragile plastic connectors prone to cracking. Do not soak pre-oiled lifters in oil as they can over-pump and hold valves open; use assembly lube and prime the oiling system instead.
• Engine/Trans Separation: On high-mileage units, the engine and transmission can be difficult to separate. Ensure all bellhousing and torque converter bolts are removed.
• Harness Compatibility: The engine wiring harness must match the AWD configuration. Ensure correct routing around the driver-side starter to avoid pinching or melting.

Arrival Inspection: Compression and Leak-Down Testing

Before installing your used 5.7L Hemi engine, you must test its internal health. Do this while the engine is still on the shipping pallet. This saves you from installing a bad engine.

Compression Test: Remove all eight spark plugs to let the engine spin freely. Hook up a starter and a battery to crank the engine. A healthy 5.7L Hemi should show compression readings between 150 and 170 PSI (pounds per square inch) on your gauge. The exact number is less important than the balance between cylinders. The lowest reading must be within 15% of the highest reading. If one cylinder reads 160 PSI and another reads 90 PSI, the engine has internal damage.

Leak-Down Test: This test pumps compressed air into each cylinder to see how well it holds pressure. A good used Hemi should have less than 15% air leakage per cylinder. If you hear air hissing out of the intake manifold, the intake valves are bad. Air hissing from the exhaust means bad exhaust valves. Air blowing out of the oil cap hole points to worn piston rings.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)