1991-1996 Dodge Stealth Window Regulator: A Guide to Noises, Failures, and Replacement

Symptoms of a Failing Window Regulator

A failing window regulator in a Dodge Stealth or its Mitsubishi 3000GT counterpart typically gives several warning signs before it completely breaks. Identifying these symptoms early can help you distinguish between a bad regulator, a failing motor, or a simple switch issue.

• Grinding, Clicking, or Popping Noises: This is the most common symptom. When you press the window switch, you may hear grinding or clicking sounds from inside the door. This often indicates a frayed cable or broken plastic gear/pulley inside the regulator assembly.
• Slow or Erratic Window Speed: If the window moves much slower than it used to, or seems to speed up and slow down as it moves, it's a sign of a problem. This can be caused by a dying motor or by a bent or binding regulator creating extra resistance.
• Crooked Window: The window may tilt forward or backward as it goes up or down. This usually means one of the regulator's guide rails or lift points has broken, causing the glass to become misaligned.
• Window Drops Into the Door: In a catastrophic failure, the cable can snap or the glass can detach from the regulator, causing the window to fall completely inside the door. You might hear a loud pop followed by the sound of the glass hitting the bottom of thedoor.
• Window Won't Stay Up: You might be able to raise the window, but it slowly slides back down on its own. This indicates the mechanism can no longer hold the weight of the glass.
• Window is Stuck: If you hear the motor whirring but the window doesn't move, the regulator is likely broken. If you hear nothing at all, the problem is more likely the switch or the motor itself.

Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls

While there are no official safety recalls from the NHTSA for the window regulators on the 1991-1996 Dodge Stealth, there are well-documented issues and a critical mid-year production change to be aware of.

The Critical 1996 Mid-Year Change

The most significant issue for buyers is a design change that occurred in early 1996. The mounting points for the window regulator assembly are different between early and late production models.

• Early Style: Fits vehicles with a production date from 1991 through February 1996.
• Late Style: Fits vehicles with a production date from March 1996 onward.

Common Failure Point: Teflon Pulley Bracket

A common point of failure on the original regulators is the upper Teflon pulley bracket. This plastic piece can become brittle with age and bend or break under the tension of the cables, causing them to bind. Some owners have successfully repaired this by fabricating a metal backing plate to reinforce the bracket, but this is a DIY-intensive repair. When inspecting a used part, pay close attention to this area for any signs of stress or cracking.

Buying a Used Front Door Window Regulator

Given the high cost of new OEM regulators, a quality used OEM part is often the best value. Aftermarket regulators are available, but their long-term durability can be questionable compared to the original factory part. Here’s what to look for when buying used.

What to Physically Inspect

• Check the Cables: Inspect the steel cables for any signs of fraying, kinks, or rust. A frayed cable is a regulator that is about to fail.
• Inspect the Pulleys: Check all plastic pulleys, especially the upper pulley bracket mentioned in the 'Known Issues' section. Ensure they are not cracked, bent, or broken and that they spin freely.
• Examine the Main Rail: Look at the main track the window slides on. Ensure it is straight and free of deep gouges or rust.
• Confirm Motor is (or is not) Included: Most regulators are sold without the motor. Confirm with the seller whether the motor is part of the sale. If you are reusing your old motor, this is not an issue.

Compatibility Verification

1. Check Left vs. Right: The driver (left) and passenger (right) side regulators are mirror images and are not interchangeable. The OEM part number for the driver's side is typically MB641281, and the passenger's side is MB641282.
2. Verify the 1996 Production Date: If you own a 1996 model, this is the most important step. Check your door jamb sticker for the production month and year. If it is before 03/96, you need the 'early style' part. If it is 03/96 or later, you need the 'late style'.

Cost Breakdown

Prices can vary based on supplier, condition, and whether the motor is included. Here are some typical price ranges to expect.

Replacement Overview & Difficulty

Replacing the window regulator is a moderately difficult job that a DIYer with some experience can handle. The main challenges are removing the interior door panel without breaking any clips and carefully handling the heavy window glass.

• Difficulty Rating: 3 out of 5
• Estimated Time: 1.5 - 2.5 hours

The basic steps involve:

1. Removing the interior door panel by locating and removing all screws and clips.
2. Carefully peeling back the plastic vapor barrier to access the inside of the door.
3. Temporarily securing the window glass in the 'up' position with strong tape or a wedge.
4. Disconnecting the window glass from the regulator's guide rail (usually two bolts).
5. Unplugging the window motor's electrical connector.
6. Unbolting the regulator assembly from the door frame (typically 4-6 bolts).
7. Maneuvering the old regulator out of the access hole in the door.
8. If necessary, transferring the motor from the old regulator to the new one.
9. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)