2013-2017 Dodge Viper Door Assembly: Recall, Water Leaks, and Replacement Guide
This guide covers the critical door latch recall, common window failures, and how to inspect a used front door assembly for your 2013-2017 Viper.
- A critical safety recall exists for 2013-2014 Vipers where doors can open while driving; verify this repair has been done.
- When buying a used door, the most important inspection is checking the wiring harness in the rubber boot for damage.
- Window regulators are a common failure point, but can be replaced separately from the entire door.
- Replacement of the full door assembly is a difficult job (4/5) primarily because of the precise alignment required.
Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs for 2013-2017 Viper Doors
The fifth-generation Dodge Viper has several known issues related to its door assemblies, including a major safety recall and a technical service bulletin (TSB) addressing electronic failures caused by water intrusion.
Safety Recall R14 / NHTSA 15V-178: Doors May Open While Driving
A critical safety recall was issued for 2013-2014 Dodge Viper models built between October 2012 and February 2014. The defect involves the outside door handle switch. When exposed to moisture, the switch can short circuit, causing the electronic door latch to release unexpectedly. This can result in the driver or passenger door opening on its own at speeds up to 18 mph, creating a significant safety risk. The root cause was identified as the supplier using the wrong potting material (a hot melt adhesive instead of a two-part epoxy) to seal the switch, allowing moisture to seep in.
The remedy provided by FCA (Chrysler) was to replace both the right and left outside door handle assemblies and their top covers, free of charge. Before purchasing a 2013-2014 Viper or a used door assembly, it is essential to verify with a dealer or through the NHTSA website that this recall has been completed.
Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 23-021-16: Intermittent Power Windows
For 2015 Dodge Viper models built on or before February 11, 2016, a TSB was released to address intermittent power window operation. This condition is caused by water entering the door and shorting out the door control module. Over time, this can also lead to corrosion in the module and wiring. The official repair procedure involves installing new, improved water shields, replacing the door wiring harnesses, and replacing both the left and right door modules.
Symptoms of a Failing Door Assembly
Failures in the Viper's door can manifest in several ways, ranging from minor annoyances to critical safety hazards.
1. Door Fails to Open or Latch
You may find the exterior electronic push-button or interior handle stops working intermittently or completely. The door may also fail to latch securely when closed. This can be caused by several issues:
- A failed microswitch in the exterior handle or interior release.
- Broken wires in the door harness where it flexes between the door and the body—a very common failure point.
- A faulty door latch actuator, which is the electronic part of the latch mechanism.
- Dirt and debris inside the push-button mechanism preventing electrical contact.
2. Window Malfunctions
The power windows are a known weak point. Symptoms include the window dropping suddenly inside the door, often with a loud bang, or refusing to go up or down. This is almost always caused by a failed window regulator, specifically the plastic 'window bosses' that attach the glass to the regulator rails. In other cases, the window motor itself may fail, or the door module that controls it may be faulty due to water damage.
3. Wind Noise or Water Leaks
Excessive wind noise at speed or water dripping into the cabin are signs of a poor seal. This can be caused by a worn or damaged weatherstrip, but on a Viper, it often points to incorrect door alignment. Even a slight misalignment can prevent the door from compressing the seals properly.
4. Rattling or Clunking Noises
Sounds coming from inside the door when driving or closing it often indicate a loose or broken component. This could be a window regulator that has come apart, a loose speaker, or a problem with the latch mechanism.
Buying a Used 2013-2017 Viper Door: What to Check
Due to the high cost of a new door shell, a recycled OEM door is often the best choice. However, careful inspection is critical.
1. Verify What's Included
A 'door assembly' can mean different things. Clarify with the seller exactly what parts are included. A complete door should ideally include:
- The outer door shell
- Window glass
- Window regulator and motor
- Door latch and actuator
- Full wiring harness
- Exterior handle and side-view mirror
A bare door shell is significantly less valuable and requires transferring all your old parts, which is labor-intensive.
2. Inspect the Wiring Harness
This is one of the most important checks. Carefully inspect the entire door wiring harness, especially the rubber accordion boot that sits between the door and the car's body. Peel it back and look for cracked, frayed, or previously repaired wires. A damaged harness can cause endless electrical problems and is difficult to repair correctly.
3. Check for Hidden Damage
Look beyond the obvious dents and scratches. Inspect the door's structure, especially the inner frame and mounting points for the hinges and latch. Check for any signs of previous repair, like non-factory welds or body filler (a paint depth gauge is a useful tool here). Ensure the door's edges are straight and have not been bent or tweaked in an accident.
4. For 2013-2014 Doors, Ask About the Recall
If buying a door from a 2013-2014 model, ask if the door handle recall (R14) was performed. A door with the original, defective handle assembly will need to be updated to be safe.
Pro Tip: Whenever possible, buy a door that is the same color as your car. While it will still need to be blended by a body shop, starting with the factory color can sometimes save on painting costs compared to a door of a completely different color.
Cost Comparison for a Viper Front Door Assembly
Prices for Viper parts are high due to the car's low production numbers. Aftermarket door shells are generally not available; the main options are new OEM or used OEM.
| Part Type | Estimated Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| New OEM Door Shell | $3,500 - $4,500+ | This is for a bare, unpainted shell. You must transfer all other components. |
| Used OEM Door Assembly | $1,000 - $3,000+ | Highly variable based on condition, color, and whether it's complete with glass, regulator, etc. |
| New OEM Components (Individual) | $300 - $1,500+ per part | Examples: Door Latch ($450+), Side Mirror ($1,200+), Interior Panel ($650+). |
| Shop Labor for Installation | $500 - $1,200+ | Includes swapping parts, mounting the door, and the critical alignment process. Does not include paint work. |
Replacement Overview & Difficulty
- Difficulty: 4 out of 5
- DIY Feasible: For experienced mechanics only
- Estimated Time: 4-6 hours (not including paint)
Replacing a Viper door is a complex job best left to professionals or very experienced DIYers. While removing the interior door panel is surprisingly simple on the Gen 5 (just two T25 screws under covers and clips), the rest of the job is challenging.
Key Steps & Challenges:
- Disconnect the Battery: This is mandatory to disable the side airbag in the door.
- Remove Interior Panel: Remove the two screw covers and screws, then carefully pry the panel off its clips. Disconnect the electrical connectors and release cable.
- Transfer Components: If using a bare shell, every single part must be moved from the old door to the new one. This includes the delicate wiring harness and the tricky window regulator.
- Mounting the Door: This is a two-person job. The door must be supported while unbolting the hinges from the old door and attaching the new one to prevent injury and damage to the car's paint or the door itself.
- Alignment: This is the most difficult step. The door's position must be minutely adjusted at the hinges to achieve even panel gaps with the fender, rocker panel, and roof. It must also close smoothly and compress the weatherstripping correctly. This requires patience and expertise.
- Window Relearn: After reconnecting the battery, a window relearn procedure is necessary to restore the auto up/down function. This typically involves holding the switch down for 5 seconds after the window is fully down, and holding it up for 5 seconds after it is fully up.
OEM Part Numbers
The following are verified OEM part numbers for the front door shell. The 'AA', 'AB', 'AC', etc., suffixes indicate revisions; later letters are newer revisions and are generally interchangeable. Part numbers are specific to the left (driver) or right (passenger) side.
- 68185111AA, 68185111AB, 68185111AC
- 68185122AA, 68185122AB, 68185122AC
- 68185123AA, 68185123AB, 68185123AC, 68185123AD, 68185123AE
- 68185140AA, 68185140AB, 68185140AC
- 68234851AA
Other related part numbers include:
- TSB Water Shield (Left): 05035333AB
- TSB Water Shield (Right): 05035332AB
- TSB Door Module (Left): 05035187AF
- TSB Door Module (Right): 05035186AF
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Does a new OEM door come painted?
No, new OEM door shells are sold with only a black e-coat primer. They must be prepped, painted, and clear-coated by a professional body shop to match your vehicle.
Can I just replace the window regulator instead of the whole door?
Yes, absolutely. If your only problem is a faulty window, you can replace just the window regulator and motor assembly. This is a common repair. There are even aftermarket kits to fix the common failure point of the window bosses.
Is the driver's side door the same as the passenger's side?
No, they are not interchangeable. They are mirror images of each other and have unique part numbers.
My door opens fine with the inside handle but not the outside button. What's the problem?
This strongly suggests the problem is with the exterior handle's microswitch, the wiring leading to it, or the recall issue on 2013-14 models. Since the interior handle works, the main latch actuator is likely functional.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 68185111AA 68185111AB 68185111AC 68185122AA 68185122AB 68185122AC 68185123AA 68185123AB 68185123AC 68185123AD 68185123AE 68185140AA 68185140AB 68185140AC 68234851AA
Door shell material is typically aluminum or Sheet Molding Compound (SMC) plastic panels.
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
- Dodge Viper:
- Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs for 2013-2017 Viper Doors
- Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 23-021-16: Intermittent Power Windows
- Symptoms of a Failing Door Assembly
- 1. Door Fails to Open or Latch
- 2. Window Malfunctions
- 3. Wind Noise or Water Leaks
- 4. Rattling or Clunking Noises
- Buying a Used 2013-2017 Viper Door: What to Check
- 1. Verify What's Included
- 2. Inspect the Wiring Harness
- 3. Check for Hidden Damage
- 4. For 2013-2014 Doors, Ask About the Recall
- Cost Comparison for a Viper Front Door Assembly
- Replacement Overview & Difficulty
- OEM Part Numbers
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
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