2018-2021 Kia Stinger Tailgate: Decoding Rattles, Power Liftgate Faults, and Part Swaps
This guide covers the common tailgate rattle TSBs, power liftgate failures, and the critical differences between manual and power versions you must know before buying a used part.
- The most critical factor when buying a replacement is verifying if it's for a power liftgate or a manual liftgate; they are not interchangeable.
- A rattling noise from the rear is a very common problem, especially on 2018 models, and is often fixable by adjusting bumpers or following Kia's TSB (SA322) procedure.
- If the power liftgate acts erratically, first try the reset procedure found in the owner's manual before assuming a part has failed.
- When buying used, prioritize a liftgate with a clean, uncut wiring harness and confirm which components (glass, camera, lights) are included.
Power vs. Manual: The Most Important Difference
Before diagnosing issues or buying a replacement, you must identify which type of liftgate your 2018-2021 Kia Stinger has. The parts are not interchangeable without significant modification.
- Power Liftgate: Found on higher trim levels (like the GT2), this version uses motorized struts to open and close automatically. You can operate it via a button on the key fob, dashboard, or on the liftgate itself. The liftgate shell for this system has specific mounting points for the power struts and a more complex wiring harness. The OEM part number for a power liftgate shell is typically 73700-J5030.
- Manual Liftgate: Found on base models, this version uses standard gas-charged struts for lift assistance. You must open and close it by hand. The shell is simpler and uses a different part number, such as 73700-J5020.
Warning: Installing a manual liftgate on a car originally equipped with a power system (or vice-versa) will not work correctly. The mounting points, wiring, and control systems are different. Always verify the system type of the donor vehicle when purchasing a used part.
Common Symptoms of a Failing Stinger Tailgate
While the liftgate assembly is generally reliable, a few common issues have been reported by owners, particularly with early models.
Tailgate Rattle Over Bumps
This is the most widely reported issue, especially for 2018 models. The noise is typically a rattle or clunking sound coming from the rear of the car when driving over uneven surfaces. Kia acknowledged this and released several Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) to address it. The cause is usually a combination of misaligned bumpers and the latch striker.
Power Liftgate Fails to Open or Close Correctly
Owners of models with the power liftgate may experience several issues:
- Won't Open or Close: The liftgate may not respond to the button on the fob, dash, or the gate itself. In some cases, a latch mechanism failure is to blame.
- Stops Mid-Cycle: The gate starts to open or close, then stops and may reverse direction.
- Doesn't Latch Completely: The power system closes the gate, but it doesn't engage the final latch, resulting in a "hatch open" warning on the dash.
- Drops Unexpectedly: The liftgate opens fully but then lowers slightly, sometimes enough to hit a person's head. This often points to a failing motorized strut.
Pro Tip: If your power liftgate is acting up after the battery was disconnected or went dead, it may just need to be reset. The procedure is in your owner's manual but generally involves pressing and holding a combination of liftgate buttons to re-initialize the system.
Known Issues, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)
While there are no direct recalls for the liftgate assembly itself, several TSBs and related recalls are relevant.
- TSB SA322, SA322A, SA347: These service actions were released for early 2018 models to fix the common tailgate rattle. The procedure involves adjusting the overslam bumpers, installing a kit with thicker pads and washers for the guide bumpers, and adjusting the striker alignment. Many owners have successfully performed similar fixes at home using washers or even electrical tape on the latch striker to tighten the fit.
- No Direct Recalls: As of mid-2024, there are no NHTSA recalls specifically for the Stinger's liftgate mechanism or structure. Other recalls exist for the Stinger, such as for fire risk related to the HECU module and fuel pump issues, but these do not involve the tailgate.
Buyer's Guide: What to Check Before Purchasing a Used Stinger Decklid
Buying a used OEM liftgate is a great way to save money, but careful inspection is key. A complete assembly often includes the shell, glass, spoiler, and sometimes the camera and lights.
- Verify Power vs. Manual: This is the number one priority. Get the VIN of the donor car if possible to confirm its original features. A power liftgate will have wiring for the motorized struts and control module; a manual one will not.
- Inspect the Wiring Harness: Check the entire harness that runs into the liftgate. Look for cut wires, damaged connectors, or shoddy repair work. A clean, uncut harness will save you major headaches.
- Check the Shell for Damage: Look for dents, deep scratches, and signs of body filler. Pay close attention to the seams and edges for any signs of rust or corrosion.
- Inspect the Glass: Ensure the rear glass is free of cracks and deep scratches. Check that the defroster lines are intact.
- Examine Attached Components: If the liftgate includes the spoiler, center lamp, or emblems, check their condition. Replacing these can add unexpected costs.
- Camera Condition: If a rear-view camera is included, inspect the lens for scratches or fogging. Ask the seller if it was working when removed. Note the camera plug to ensure it matches your vehicle's harness.
Cost Comparison: New vs. Used Stinger Decklid
| Part Type | Estimated Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| New OEM | $800 - $1,400 | This is for the bare liftgate shell only, unpainted. Power and manual versions have different prices. |
| New Aftermarket | $900 - $1,500+ | Full shells are rare. This price range typically reflects carbon fiber or other specialty aftermarket decklids. |
| Used OEM | $500 - $1,000 | Often includes glass and other components. Price varies greatly with condition and included parts. |
| Shop Labor | $250 - $500 | Includes swapping components from the old lid, installation, and alignment. Does not include paint work. |
Replacement Overview & Difficulty
Replacing the Stinger's liftgate is a moderately difficult job that is best done with a helper.
- Difficulty: 3 out of 5
- Time: 2-4 hours
The basic steps involve:
- Disconnecting the battery.
- Removing all interior trim panels from the liftgate and surrounding area.
- Disconnecting all electrical connectors (for the latch, camera, lights, defroster, power struts) and the washer fluid hose.
- Swapping components like the latch, camera, and lights to the new liftgate if they are not included.
- With a helper supporting the weight, unbolt the four hinge bolts that attach the liftgate to the body.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. Aligning the panel gaps and ensuring a proper seal is the most critical final step.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I add a power liftgate to my manual-liftgate Stinger?
While it is technically possible, it is a very complex and expensive conversion. You would need the power liftgate assembly, motorized struts, control module, wiring harnesses, and various switches. Aftermarket retrofit kits are available, but they also require extensive wiring and installation work. For most people, it is not a practical or cost-effective modification.
My tailgate rattles. What is the easiest way to fix it?
First, try adjusting the two rubber bump stops on the liftgate itself. Turn them counter-clockwise to extend them slightly, which can tighten the fit. If that doesn't work, the official fix involves adding washers under the guide bumpers on the body, a procedure detailed in TSB SA322. Some owners have found success with a simple DIY fix of wrapping a few layers of electrical tape around the U-shaped striker loop on the body to create a tighter connection for the latch.
Do I need to get a used decklid painted?
Yes, unless you are lucky enough to find a used part in the exact same color and in perfect condition. Automotive paint fades and weathers over time, so even a part from a car with the same paint code may not be a perfect match. For a professional result, you should plan on having a body shop paint the replacement liftgate to match your car.
Is the rear-view camera included with a used liftgate?
It depends on the seller. Many used liftgate assemblies are sold complete with the camera, lights, and spoiler still attached. However, some sellers may remove these components to sell separately. Always confirm with the seller exactly what is included in the sale. The OEM part number for the camera is typically 95760-J5510 or 95760-J5500.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 73700-J5030 73700J5030 73700-J5020 73700J5020 87111-J5010 87111J5010 87210-J5000 87210J5000 92403-J5020 92403J5020 95760-J5510 95760J5500 95760J5510
Liftgate shell material: Steel. Differentiates between power and manual liftgate systems.
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
- Kia Stinger:
- Power vs. Manual: The Most Important Difference
- Common Symptoms of a Failing Stinger Tailgate
- Tailgate Rattle Over Bumps
- Power Liftgate Fails to Open or Close Correctly
- Known Issues, Recalls, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)
- Buyer's Guide: What to Check Before Purchasing a Used Stinger Decklid
- Cost Comparison: New vs. Used Stinger Decklid
- Replacement Overview & Difficulty
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
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