1987-1989 LeBaron & Daytona Dash Panel: A Guide to Cracks, Fading, and Replacement

Symptoms of Dash Panel Failure

For the 1987-1989 Chrysler LeBaron and Dodge Daytona, dash panel failures are almost exclusively cosmetic and caused by long-term exposure to sunlight and heat. The materials used in the 1980s were susceptible to UV degradation. Here’s what to look for:

• Cracks: This is the most common symptom. Hairline cracks can appear anywhere, but are most frequent around high-stress areas like the defroster vents, speaker grilles, and the hood over the instrument cluster. Over time, these can grow into large, deep cracks.
• Fading and Discoloration: The original color of the dash will fade with sun exposure. Black dashboards often turn a chalky gray, while other colors become dull and uneven.
• Warping or Bubbling: Extreme heat can cause the vinyl top layer to separate from the underlying plastic structure, resulting in a warped or bubbled appearance, especially near the windshield.
• Brittleness: As the plastics and vinyls lose their essential oils due to heat and UV rays, the entire panel becomes brittle. This means small pieces may chip or break off easily, and the dash will make rattling or creaking sounds as the vehicle moves.
• Sticky Residue (Vehicle-Specific Issue): On some 1987-1989 models, the headlight control module, located within the dash, can degrade and leak a sticky, gooey substance. This goo can drip onto other components like the radio and trim pieces, creating a mess that is very difficult to clean.

Buying a Used Dash Panel: What to Inspect

Finding a perfect used dash panel for these vehicles is challenging due to their age and susceptibility to sun damage. However, a good used OEM part is often a better choice than a cheap aftermarket cover. Here is a detailed checklist for your inspection:

1. Check All Mounting Points: This is the most critical inspection. Carefully flip the dash panel over and inspect every single mounting tab, screw hole, and clip location. Decades of vibration and heat cycles can make these tabs brittle and they often break during removal. A dash with broken mounting points will never fit securely and will cause persistent rattles.
2. Look for Hidden Cracks: Examine the entire surface in bright, direct light. Pay close attention to the corners of openings for the glove box, instrument cluster, and vents. Also, check the underside, as cracks can start from the bottom and may not be immediately visible from the top.
3. Test for Brittleness: Gently press on a flat, open area of the dash. It should feel firm but not rock-hard. If it feels like it might snap under light pressure, it has become too brittle and will likely crack during installation or shortly after.
4. Assess Warping: Lay the dash on a large, flat surface. It should sit relatively flat without significant rocking. Look for any signs that it is pulling away at the edges, especially the long edge that meets the windshield.
5. Verify Completeness: Check if it comes with attached components like vents or the glove box door. An eBay listing for a used Daytona dash, for example, noted that it included the vents and glove box. Getting these pieces included can save you time and money.

Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls

There are no recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) from the NHTSA specifically for the dash panel itself on the 1987-1989 Chrysler LeBaron or Dodge Daytona. The primary known issue is the material degradation from heat and UV exposure, which is a common problem for many vehicles from this era. While there were several recalls for these vehicles for issues related to brakes, steering, and air bags on later models, none pertain to the dashboard structure.

Replacement Difficulty and Procedure

Replacing the entire dash panel is a very difficult and time-consuming job, not recommended for beginners.

• Difficulty Rating: 5 out of 5
• Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
• DIY Feasible: For experienced mechanics only.

The general process involves dismantling a significant portion of the vehicle's interior. While specifics vary slightly, the core steps include:

1. Disconnect the Battery: This is a mandatory first step for any interior electrical work.
2. Remove Center Console and Trim: The center console, radio, and climate control unit must be removed.
3. Remove Steering Column Covers and Drop the Column: The plastic trim around the steering column is removed, and the column itself is unbolted and carefully lowered to provide clearance.
4. Remove the Instrument Cluster: The gauge cluster must be unscrewed and its electrical connectors and speedometer cable disconnected.
5. Disconnect All Wiring and Vents: Numerous electrical connectors for switches, lights, and speakers must be unplugged. Vent ducting must also be disconnected.
6. Unbolt the Dash Assembly: The final step is to remove the main bolts securing the dash frame to the vehicle's body. These are typically located at the base of the windshield (under the defroster grille) and at the sides of the dash near the doors.
7. Remove the Dash: The entire assembly can then be carefully maneuvered out of the vehicle.
🎬 Watch this step-by-step dash and heater core removal video

Installation is the reverse of removal, and it requires careful attention to ensure all electrical connections are secure and all mounting points are properly aligned.

Cost of Replacement

The cost can vary dramatically based on the chosen solution.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)