1993 Jaguar XJ6 Cylinder Head: Diagnosing Failure and Inspecting a Used Replacement
A deep dive into the common failure points of the Jaguar AJ6 cylinder head and a detailed guide on what to check before buying a used one.
- Cylinder head failure is most often caused by a blown head gasket, which then leads to overheating that can warp or crack the head.
- When buying a used head, it is absolutely critical to have it checked for warpage with a straightedge and feeler gauges. A warped head will not seal.
- Symptoms like white exhaust smoke, milky oil, and persistent overheating are serious signs that should not be ignored.
- Replacement is a difficult, labor-intensive job (5/5 difficulty) and is not recommended for inexperienced DIY mechanics.
Understanding Cylinder Head Failure in the 1993 Jaguar XJ6

The 4.0L AJ6 inline-six engine in the 1993 Jaguar XJ6 is generally considered robust, but like many engines of its era, it is susceptible to cylinder head and head gasket issues. Failure is often not due to a fundamental flaw in the head itself, but rather the failure of the head gasket that seals it to the engine block. This can be caused by age, overheating, or improper torque on the head bolts. When the gasket fails, it can allow high-pressure combustion gases to enter the cooling system, or let coolant leak into the cylinders or mix with the engine oil.
Symptoms of a Failing Cylinder Head or Gasket

- Engine Overheating: This is a classic sign. Combustion gases entering the cooling system can create air pockets and pressurize the system beyond its limits, reducing cooling efficiency.
- White Smoke from Exhaust: Sweet-smelling white smoke or steam exiting the tailpipe, especially after the engine is warm, indicates that coolant is leaking into the combustion chambers and being burned off.
- Milky, Foamy Oil: If you check the oil dipstick or oil filler cap and find a creamy, light-brown substance that looks like a milkshake, it means coolant is mixing with your engine oil. This is a serious condition that compromises the oil's ability to lubricate, leading to rapid engine wear.
- Unexplained Coolant Loss: If you are constantly adding coolant but can't find any visible leaks (puddles under the car), the coolant may be leaking internally into the engine.
- Rough Running and Misfires: Coolant entering a cylinder can foul the spark plug, preventing proper ignition and causing the engine to run poorly, especially on startup. Loss of compression from a failed gasket between two cylinders will also cause a noticeable lack of power.
- Bubbles in the Radiator or Coolant Reservoir: With the engine running, visible bubbles in the coolant are a tell-tale sign that exhaust gases are being forced into the cooling system.
Warning: Continuing to drive with a suspected blown head gasket or cracked cylinder head can lead to catastrophic engine damage, including warped surfaces, damaged pistons, and seized bearings.
Buying a Used Cylinder Head: A Detailed Inspection Guide


Due to the high cost and limited availability of new OEM cylinder heads, a quality used head is often the most practical solution. However, careful inspection is critical to avoid buying a part with the same problems you're trying to fix. Take the head to a professional automotive machine shop for evaluation if possible. If you are inspecting it yourself, here’s what to look for:
1. Check for Warpage (The Most Critical Step)
A cylinder head that has overheated will often warp, losing its perfectly flat mating surface. A warped head will not seal properly, even with a new gasket.
- Tools Needed: A high-quality machinist's straightedge and a set of feeler gauges.
- Procedure: Lay the straightedge across the head's deck surface (the part that mates with the block). Check it lengthwise, crosswise, and diagonally. Try to slide the thinnest feeler gauge (typically 0.002 inches or 0.05mm) under the straightedge. If the gauge slides under at any point, the head is warped and will need to be professionally resurfaced (milled) by a machine shop.
- Red Flag: Forum users report that the maximum amount that can be safely removed from an AJ6 head is very small, around 0.010 inches (0.25mm) from its original height of approximately 5.016 inches. Excessive warpage may render the head unusable.
2. Inspect for Cracks
Cracks can be difficult to spot with the naked eye. A machine shop will use dye penetrant or magnetic particle inspection to find them.
- Common Locations: Pay close attention to the areas between the valve seats and between the valve seats and the spark plug holes. These are high-heat areas and common points of failure.
- Visual Clues: Look for any hairline fractures. Also, check for signs of previous repairs, like pinning or welding, which may indicate a pre-existing issue.
3. Examine for Corrosion and Erosion
Look at the coolant passages on the deck surface. Years of coolant flow can erode the aluminum, especially if improper coolant types were used.
- What to Look For: Pitting or deep channels eaten into the aluminum surface, particularly around the water jackets.
- Significance: Minor pitting can sometimes be cleaned up during resurfacing, but severe erosion can compromise the head gasket's ability to seal the coolant passages, leading to a repeat failure. Some mechanics have successfully used metal-filled epoxy like J-B Weld to fill small eroded areas before resurfacing.
4. Check Camshaft Journals and Bearing Caps
Ensure the camshafts, bearing caps, and the journals they sit in are smooth and free from deep scoring or signs of oil starvation. When the bearing caps are torqued down (without the cams installed), they should feel smooth. Any binding or roughness is a major concern.
Pro Tip: The AJ6 engine uses head bolts, not studs. When removing a head, the bolts can sometimes be difficult to break loose. When installing, it is critical to use new head bolts and follow the correct torque sequence and torque-to-yield procedure specified in the workshop manual to ensure a proper seal.
Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls
For a vehicle of this age, formal recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) directly addressing cylinder head failure are unlikely to be active. Searches on the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) database for the 1993 Jaguar XJ6 do not show any recalls related to the cylinder head or engine internals. The most common issues are age-related failures of the head gasket. Some early AJ6 head gaskets had a known weakness in sealing an oil supply gallery, and later-design gaskets are recommended for all replacements.
Cost Comparison
Replacing a cylinder head is a labor-intensive job. The following costs are estimates and can vary significantly based on location, shop, and the extent of any related damage found.
| Item | Estimated Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| New OEM Cylinder Head | $900 - $1,200+ (if available) | Extremely rare and often listed as 'No Longer Available' or special order from Jaguar Classic Parts. |
| New Aftermarket | Not Generally Available | The market for new aftermarket AJ6 heads is virtually nonexistent. |
| Used OEM | $300 - $700 | Price depends on condition and whether it includes cams/valves. Inspection is mandatory. |
| Remanufactured | $1,200 - $2,000+ | A used head that has been professionally cleaned, inspected, resurfaced, and rebuilt with new seals and guides. Often comes with a warranty. |
| Shop Labor (Head Gasket Replacement) | $2,800 - $4,200+ | This is for a head gasket job. If the entire head needs to be replaced, costs can be higher. This is a complex, time-consuming job. |
| Machine Shop Services (for a used head) | $200 - $600 | Cost for cleaning, pressure testing, and resurfacing a bare head. |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is it the cylinder head or just the head gasket that fails?
Most often, the head gasket is the initial point of failure. However, the overheating event caused by the failing gasket can lead to the cylinder head warping or cracking, which then requires the head to be resurfaced or replaced.
Can I replace a Jaguar XJ6 cylinder head myself?
This is a very advanced DIY job, rated 5 out of 5 for difficulty. It requires significant engine disassembly, specialized tools like a torque wrench and cam alignment tools, and a meticulous approach to cleaning and reassembly. The head itself is heavy and awkward to lift out of the engine bay. For most owners, this job is best left to a professional mechanic with experience with older Jaguars.
Do I need to get my replacement used head machined?
It is highly recommended. At a minimum, any used cylinder head should be taken to a machine shop to be professionally cleaned and checked for flatness (warpage) and cracks before installation. Installing a warped or cracked head will guarantee a repeat failure.
What are the OEM part numbers for the 1993 XJ6 cylinder head?
Known OEM part numbers for the AJ6 cylinder head assembly include EBC10690, EBC11327, and EBC2926. However, it's crucial to verify compatibility by engine number, as there were changes during the AJ6 production run. The actual casting number on the head itself is the most reliable identifier.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: EBC10690 EBC11327 EBC2926
Fits 4.0L DOHC AJ6 inline-6 engine. Aluminum construction.
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
- Jaguar XJ6:
- Understanding Cylinder Head Failure in the 1993 Jaguar XJ6
- Symptoms of a Failing Cylinder Head or Gasket
- Buying a Used Cylinder Head: A Detailed Inspection Guide
- 1. Check for Warpage (The Most Critical Step)
- 2. Inspect for Cracks
- 3. Examine for Corrosion and Erosion
- 4. Check Camshaft Journals and Bearing Caps
- Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls
- Cost Comparison
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
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