2017-2026 Tesla Model 3 & Model Y Coil Springs: Noises, Failures, and RWD vs. AWD Differences

Symptoms of a Failing Coil Spring

A broken or severely worn coil spring will noticeably affect your vehicle's performance and safety. While coil spring breakage is not a widely reported common failure on the Tesla Model 3 and Model Y, it's important to recognize the signs. Be aware that many of these symptoms, especially noises, are more frequently caused by failing control arm bushings or ball joints on these specific models.

• Clunking or Banging Noises: A sharp clunk or bang when going over bumps can indicate a broken spring shifting or making contact with other suspension parts. However, on a Model 3 or Y, this noise is very often traced to worn control arm bushings or sway bar end links.
🎬 Watch this video to identify and fix sway bar clunking.
• Vehicle Sagging: One of the most obvious signs is a corner of the car sitting lower than the others. You can measure the distance from the top of the wheel arch to the ground on all four corners; a significant difference points to a suspension problem like a failed spring.
• Bottoming Out: If your suspension hits its bump stops with a harsh thud on bumps it would normally handle, the spring may have lost its ability to support the vehicle's weight.
• Uneven Tire Wear: A collapsed spring alters the suspension geometry, leading to accelerated and uneven tire wear, often on the inside or outside edge.
• Poor Handling: The vehicle may feel unstable, sway excessively in turns, or bounce more than usual after hitting a bump.

Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls

While coil springs themselves are not the subject of major recalls, other suspension components on the Model 3 and Model Y are, and their symptoms can be easily mistaken for a bad spring.

Recall: Loose Front Suspension Lateral Link Fasteners

Common Failure: Control Arm Noises

The most common source of suspension noise on the Model 3 and Model Y is not the coil springs, but the control arms.

• Front Upper Control Arms: The ball joints in the front upper arms are known to allow water entry, causing corrosion and a distinct creaking or "duck call" sound, especially when steering at low speeds. Tesla issued a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB SB-20-31-006) for this issue.
🎬 See how to diagnose and replace the upper control arm.
• Front Lower Control Arm Bushings: The rubber bushings on the two lower control arms (the lateral link and compliance arm) are known to tear, typically after 40,000 miles. This can cause a clunking or crunching sound when braking, accelerating, or driving over bumps.

Variant Differences: RWD vs. AWD is Critical

It is extremely important to understand that different coil springs are used on Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) and All-Wheel Drive (AWD) models, particularly for the rear suspension. The initial data for this guide included multiple warnings about this, and it's a critical point for anyone buying a replacement.

• Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD): These models have a single motor at the rear.
• All-Wheel Drive (AWD): These models (including Long Range and Performance trims) have an additional motor at the front, which adds weight and changes the vehicle's balance.

Because of the different weight distribution, RWD and AWD vehicles use different rear coil springs to achieve the correct ride height and handling characteristics. Installing the wrong spring can result in incorrect ride height, poor handling, and unsafe driving conditions. Always verify the part number you are purchasing is correct for your specific vehicle configuration.

Buying a Used Coil Spring

Since coil spring breakage is not a common issue on these cars, buying a good-condition used OEM spring is a very practical and cost-effective repair option. Here’s what to look for:

• Verify Compatibility First: This is the most important step. Get the part number from the seller and confirm it matches the requirement for your vehicle's year, model (3 or Y), and drivetrain (RWD or AWD). Do not buy a spring based on appearance alone. A seller may list a part as fitting a "Model 3" without specifying the drivetrain it came from.
• Check for Cracks: Inspect the entire spring carefully, paying close attention to the very top and bottom coils where they sit in the spring seats. This is where cracks from stress and corrosion most often form.
• Inspect for Corrosion: Look for heavy rust or deep pitting. While surface rust is often cosmetic, deep flaking rust can weaken the spring steel over time, especially in areas that use road salt in the winter. The original protective coating should be mostly intact.
• Look for Markings: OEM springs often have paint markings or tags on them that can help identify their rate and application. If visible, try to match these to your original spring.
• Avoid Cut or Heated Springs: Never buy a spring that shows signs of being cut with a torch or grinder, or has discolored areas from being heated. These are unsafe modifications done to lower a vehicle and will ruin the spring's integrity.
• Consider Mileage: A spring from a low-mileage vehicle (e.g., under 50,000 miles) is an excellent value. While springs can last the life of the vehicle, they are still a wear item.

Cost to Replace Coil Springs (2017-2026 Model 3 & Y)

Costs are estimates and can vary by location and which components are replaced. It is highly recommended to replace coil springs in pairs (both front or both rear) to ensure even ride height and handling.

Replacement Information

Replacing a rear coil spring on a Model 3 or Model Y is a moderately difficult job that can be done by an experienced DIYer.

• Difficulty: 3 out of 5.
• Estimated Time: 1.5 - 2.0 hours to replace a pair of rear springs.
• Tools Required: Floor jack, jack stands, basic metric socket set (10mm, 21mm), torque wrench.

The basic procedure for the rear involves:

1. Safely jacking up the vehicle and removing the wheel.
2. Removing plastic aero shields under the car to access the suspension bolts.
3. Placing a jack under the lower control arm to support the suspension.
4. Removing the bolt connecting the shock absorber to the lower control arm, and the bolt connecting the control arm to the wheel knuckle.
5. Slowly lowering the jack under the control arm, which will decompress and release the spring.
6. Swapping the upper and lower rubber insulators to the new spring and installing it in reverse order.
7. Torquing all bolts to specification once the suspension is loaded (at normal ride height). A wheel alignment is recommended after replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)