1991-1993 Dodge Stealth ECS Struts & Springs: Failure, Diagnosis, and Replacement Guide

Understanding the Dodge Stealth Suspension: ECS vs. Standard

The first-generation Dodge Stealth, a mechanical twin to the Mitsubishi 3000GT, offered two main types of suspension. Base and ES models typically came with a standard, non-adjustable suspension. Higher-trim models, particularly the all-wheel-drive (AWD) R/T Turbo, were equipped with the Electronic Controlled Suspension (ECS). This system was a major technological feature for the era.

The key to the ECS is a set of four special struts with small electric motors on top. These motors can rotate an internal valve to change the damping force, making the ride softer or firmer. The system is managed by a dedicated ECS computer, located in the trunk on the passenger side, which reads data from sensors for vehicle speed, steering angle, and G-forces to automatically adjust the suspension or respond to the driver's selection of 'Tour' or 'Sport' mode.

Symptoms of Failing ECS Struts and Springs

After 30+ years, these complex components are prone to failure. Here are the most common symptoms:

• Flashing 'TOUR'/'SPORT' Light: This is the most common sign of a problem. The ECS computer has detected a fault in the system and will flash the lights on the dash to alert the driver. This is often caused by a failed actuator motor on a strut, a wiring issue at the strut top, or a fault in the ECS control module itself.
• Leaking Fluid: The struts are filled with oil. If you see oily, wet residue on the body of the strut, it is leaking and has failed. A leaking strut can no longer dampen suspension movements effectively, leading to a bouncy or uncontrolled ride.
• Harsh or Bouncy Ride: If a strut fails, it may get stuck in the 'Sport' (firm) setting, making the ride uncomfortably harsh. Conversely, a completely worn-out, leaking strut will offer no damping, causing the car to bounce excessively over bumps.
• Audible Noises: Clunking, popping, or creaking sounds when going over bumps can indicate a failed strut mount, a broken coil spring, or other worn suspension components.
• Sagging Ride Height: If one corner of the car sits lower than the others, it's a classic sign of a broken or severely fatigued coil spring.
• Inability to Switch Modes: If pressing the ECS button does nothing, or if you can't hear the small motors on the struts actuating when you switch modes (with the engine off but ignition on), there is a fault in the system.

Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls

While there are no specific recalls for the ECS struts or springs themselves, there are related issues for the 1991-1993 model years:

• NHTSA Campaign 93V033001: Affecting AWD Turbo models, this recall addressed an issue where the transfer case could leak oil, leading to bearing failure and potential powertrain lockup.
• NHTSA Campaign 96V143003: This recall was for front brake hoses that could crack at full steering lock and suspension travel, causing a loss of brake fluid.
• ECS Control Module Failure: The ECS computer itself is a known failure point. Capacitors on the circuit board from that era are prone to leaking over time, which corrodes the board and causes system malfunctions. These modules can often be repaired by companies that specialize in rebuilding automotive electronics.

Buying a Used Coil/Strut Assembly

Finding new OEM ECS struts is nearly impossible as they have been discontinued. This makes the used market a primary source for owners wanting to maintain the original system. However, buying a 30-year-old electronic and hydraulic part carries significant risk. Here’s what to check:

• Verify the Part Number: Compatibility is critical. Struts and springs differ between Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) and All-Wheel Drive (AWD) models, and potentially between production dates. Ensure the part number matches your vehicle's specific needs. The initial data provided lists several part numbers; always cross-reference with a reliable source for your exact model and trim.
• Thoroughly Inspect for Leaks: This is the number one red flag. Look for any signs of oil residue on the strut body. A clean, dry strut is a good start, but it's no guarantee of internal health.
• Check the ECS Actuator and Wiring: Inspect the plastic cap and motor on top of the strut for cracks or physical damage. Ensure the wiring pigtail and connector are intact and not corroded. Damaged wiring is a common failure point.
• Inspect the Coil Spring: Look for cracks, heavy rust, or breaks in the spring itself. Check the rubber spring seats and insulators for rot or damage.
• Examine the Strut Mount: The upper strut mount contains a rubber insulator and bearing. Check for cracked or perished rubber. Worn mounts can cause clunking noises and poor steering feel.

The Alternative: Converting to Standard Suspension

Given the rarity and questionable reliability of used ECS parts, a very popular option is to 'delete' the ECS system and convert to a modern, standard suspension. This involves replacing the four ECS strut and spring assemblies with either standard fixed-rate struts or a fully adjustable coilover kit.

• Standard Struts: Companies like KYB offer direct-fit non-adjustable struts (like the GR-2/Excel-G model) that provide excellent performance for daily driving. This is the most cost-effective and straightforward conversion.
• Coilover Kits: For performance-oriented owners, numerous companies offer full coilover kits that allow for adjustment of ride height, damping, and sometimes camber. This is the most expensive option but offers the greatest tuning capability.

After installing a non-ECS suspension, the ECS computer must be disconnected to prevent the 'TOUR'/'SPORT' lights from flashing continuously. The module is located in the trunk, behind a panel on the passenger side, and can be simply unplugged.

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