1996 Dodge Stealth DOHC Alternator: Decoding the 95-Amp Unit and Engine-Specific Fitment

Compatibility Warning: DOHC Engines Only

Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls

As of mid-2026, there are no specific recalls, Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs), or common pattern failures issued by the NHTSA or Dodge for the alternator on the 1996 Dodge Stealth. Any failure is typically due to normal wear and tear over time. The most significant issue for owners is the compatibility confusion between DOHC and SOHC models.

Symptoms of a Failing 1996 Stealth Alternator

When your alternator begins to fail, it will give several distinct warning signs. Because it's the heart of the electrical system, the symptoms are almost always electrical in nature.

Dashboard Warning Lights

The most common first sign is the illumination of the battery warning light on your dashboard while driving. This light indicates a problem with the charging system, meaning the voltage has dropped below the normal operating range. In some cases, the 'Check Engine' light may also illuminate.

Electrical Problems

A dying alternator provides inconsistent voltage, leading to a variety of strange electrical behaviors:

• Dimming or Flickering Lights: You may notice the headlights, interior lights, and dashboard backlighting dim, flicker, or even get excessively bright. This is most noticeable at idle or when you turn on high-load accessories like the heater or rear defroster.
• Slow Accessories: Power windows may operate much slower than usual, or the radio might cut out or act erratically.
• Stalling Engine: The alternator provides power to the ignition system and fuel pump. If it fails completely, the engine will run off the battery until it's drained, at which point the engine will stall and will not restart without a jump.

Unusual Noises

A failing alternator can make distinct sounds that change with engine RPM:

• Whining or Grinding: A high-pitched whine or a grinding noise from the front of the engine is a classic sign of bad alternator bearings.
• Squealing: A loud squeal, especially on startup or when the engine is under load, can indicate a loose or worn serpentine belt that is slipping on the alternator pulley.

Strange Smells

In some cases, you might smell burning rubber from a slipping belt or a hot, electrical burning smell from an overworked and overheating alternator. If you smell burning, you should have the vehicle inspected immediately.

Buying a Used 1996 Stealth DOHC Alternator

For a vehicle of this age, a quality used OEM alternator is often a smart and economical choice. Here’s what to look for to ensure you get a good part.

Compatibility is Key

First, re-verify that your Stealth has the DOHC engine. The correct alternator is a 95-amp unit with a 6-groove serpentine pulley. The most common Mitsubishi part numbers are MD324754 and A3T12491. Do not purchase an alternator from a SOHC model.

Physical Inspection Checklist

When inspecting a used alternator, check the following:

• Pulley: Spin the pulley by hand. It should spin smoothly and quietly. Any roughness, grinding, or wobble indicates bad bearings.
• Housing: Inspect the aluminum case for any cracks, heavy corrosion, or signs of being dropped.
• Electrical Connections: The threaded post for the main power cable and the plastic connector plug should be clean and free of damage or corrosion.
• Contamination: Look for signs of oil or coolant leaks on the unit. Fluid contamination is a common cause of premature alternator failure.

Mileage and Lifespan

An original equipment alternator can last 80,000 to 150,000 miles. When buying used, look for a part from a vehicle with lower mileage (ideally under 120,000 miles) to maximize its remaining service life. Always ask the seller for the mileage of the donor vehicle if possible.

Used OEM vs. New Aftermarket

A tested, low-mileage used OEM Mitsubishi alternator is often superior to a new, low-cost aftermarket unit. OEM units are built to higher quality standards with better internal components, like the voltage regulator, which ensures a stable and correct output for the car's sensitive electronics. Cheap aftermarket alternators can sometimes have inconsistent voltage regulation, which can cause other electrical issues down the line.

Replacement Cost Comparison

The cost to replace a 1996 Dodge Stealth alternator can vary significantly based on the part source and who performs the labor.

Rebuild vs. Replace

For the dedicated DIYer, rebuilding the alternator is possible. Kits containing new brushes, bearings, and a voltage regulator are available. However, the cost of the individual high-quality internal components can sometimes approach the price of a complete remanufactured unit. For most owners, replacing the entire alternator with a good used OEM or a quality remanufactured part is the more time- and cost-effective solution.

Related Part Replacement

Step-by-Step Replacement Guide (DOHC Models)

Replacing the alternator on a DOHC Stealth is a manageable DIY job but requires working in a tight space. The alternator is located on the front (radiator side) of the engine on the driver's side.

1. Safety First: Disconnect the negative terminal from the car battery.
2. Access: Securely jack up the front of the car and remove the driver's side front wheel and the plastic splash shield in the wheel well to gain access to the pulleys.
3. Loosen Belt: Using a 14mm wrench, loosen the lock nut on the front of the belt tensioner pulley. Then, use a 12mm wrench on the long adjustment bolt on top of the tensioner, turning it counter-clockwise to release tension. Slip the belt off the alternator pulley.
4. Improve Clearance: To create more room, many find it helpful to remove the driver's side radiator fan (held by four 10mm bolts and two electrical connectors). Alternatively, you can unbolt the A/C line brackets and carefully tie the line up and out of the way without disconnecting it.
5. Disconnect Wiring: Remove the plastic cover from the main power terminal on the alternator and undo the 10mm nut. Unplug the main electrical connector.
6. Unbolt Alternator: The alternator is held in a large bracket by several bolts. Remove the two 12mm bolts on top and the two 14mm bolts on the side of the bracket. The alternator will now be free.
7. Remove and Install: Carefully maneuver the alternator out through the top. You may need to wiggle it past the radiator and other components. Transfer the mounting bracket to the new alternator if necessary, then install the new unit by reversing these steps.
8. Tension Belt: After reinstalling, tighten the 12mm tensioner adjustment bolt until the belt has approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch of deflection when pressed firmly between the pulleys. Then, tighten the 14mm lock nut on the tensioner pulley.

Frequently Asked Questions